Memory cards are an essential part of digital photography. They record your precious files and keep them safe until you’re able to transfer them to your (hopefully) full-fledged storage solution – which means that it’s essential that you understand how to use memory cards correctly.

After all, a properly cared-for memory card will often perform flawlessly for years – while a poorly looked-after card will be prone to errors, corruption, and loss of files.

In this article, I share 18 tips for keeping your memory cards in good condition. I explain how you should correctly eject your cards, how often (and when) you should format your cards, and more.

Let’s dive right in!

1. Carry backup cards whenever you shoot

Card failure is unpredictable, and the last thing you want is to miss a once-in-a-lifetime shot because your only card decided to act up.

Therefore, I’ve made it a habit to carry at least three cards with me on every shoot. And while it might seem excessive, it’s better to be safe than sorry!

Imagine you’re capturing a breathtaking sunset or a candid moment at a child’s birthday party. Suddenly, your camera stops working due to a card error. If you have a backup, you just switch cards and continue shooting. But without a backup, that moment is lost forever. (Of course, it’s not just about having extras; it’s also about ensuring you have enough storage to keep shooting without worries.)

For different shoots, the backup cards you choose can vary. For a casual day out, a couple of smaller capacity cards might suffice. But for a professional gig, you might want to carry a handful of larger, high-speed cards. These backups will be your photography lifeline.

By the way, one thing I’ve noticed that’s true, at least for myself: having backup cards provides immense peace of mind. When you’re focused on getting the perfect shot, the last thing you want is to worry about storage space or card failure. The backups serve as a guarantee that no matter what happens, your photography can go on uninterrupted.

2. If disaster strikes, stop shooting

If you’re in the middle of a photoshoot and you run into a memory card problem – for instance, you accidentally delete your images or see a card error message – then stop photographing immediately.

Turn off your camera, eject the card, and store it in a safe place. When you run into one of these problems, all is not lost, and you may still be able to recover the images. However, it’s important that you stop using the card; otherwise, you might overwrite the files. Data recovery services and other tools are often very effective, especially when recovering accidentally deleted files, but once an image is overwritten, then it’s often lost forever.

If you do have a memory card issue while shooting, you can always continue the session with another card. The key is to safely remove the problematic card as soon as possible.

3. Treat your cards well

It’s crucial to treat your memory cards with care, especially when you’re out in difficult conditions. In the heat of the moment, switching cards quickly might seem necessary, but it’s also essential to take the time to handle them properly. I’ve seen too many instances where a little negligence led to big problems. A few tips here:

First, always ensure your hands are clean when handling memory cards. Dirt and oils don’t mesh well will the delicate connectors. And hold the cards gently by the edges, avoiding the gold contacts. This might sound like overkill, but it’s these small habits that can prolong the life of your cards.

Another key point is to be focused when handling your cards. Distractions can lead to accidental drops, especially in outdoor environments. I’ve heard of photographers dropping cards into puddles. Don’t let that be you!

Proper storage is also vital. When not in use, keep your cards in a protective case to shield them from dust, moisture, and physical damage. Avoid extreme temperatures and magnetic sources as these can damage the data. Think of your memory cards as fragile; that way, you’ll have the best shot at preserving the images they hold.

4. Avoid deleting files one by one on your camera

Did you know that repeatedly deleting images from an in-camera card while the card is still in your camera can actually shorten that card’s life? It’s true.

The rule is that the fewer times you add or remove data on your card, the better. So instead of selectively deleting files as you shoot, aim to erase all the images at once after uploading them to your computer. That way, you delete the files in a single cycle, not one at a time.

(Or better yet, use the Format function on your camera to wipe the card before each new photoshoot!)

5. Remove cards safely from your computer

It’s tempting to connect a memory card to your computer, transfer the images, and then pull it out of the card reader slot.

But that’s an easy way to cause problems, so after uploading images to your computer, make sure you take the time to eject the card before removing it from your card reader.

(If you use a Mac, you’ll probably need to right-click the relevant drive and hit Eject. If you use a Windows PC, you’ll need to use the Safely Remove Hardware option in your system tray.)

6. Multiple small cards can be better than one big card

These days, you can grab memory cards that store 128 GB, 256 GB, and beyond. But while these products do offer significant advantages – you need to carry far fewer cards, for one! – they also come with a significant drawback: You’re reliant on one (or a few) cards to get you through lengthy photoshoots and even week-long photo adventures.

I myself learned this lesson on a recent trip; I had a memory card die on me, and if I only owned one huge card, I would’ve been unable to continue using my camera. That’s why it’s at least worth considering multi-card storage solutions (plus, if you do lose the data on one card, not all of your images from a shoot will be lost).

7. Keep your cards organized

With memory cards, a little organization can go a long way! It’s easy to mix up cards when you’re juggling multiple shoots or locations. You don’t want to reach for a card during an important shoot, only to find it full. Or worse, realize that you just formatted a card that holds valuable images.

I’ve found that a clear system can be incredibly helpful. I use a memory card case for this purpose. My fresh cards always go on the left side, and the used ones on the right. It’s simple but effective. When I’m in the field, this system saves me from second-guessing. I always know exactly where my empty cards are.

Of course, what works for me might not work for you. Some photographers prefer labeling their cards with stickers or using different colored cases. The key is consistency. Stick to your chosen method so it becomes second nature.

8. Avoid filling your cards completely

My friend recently had an issue with a memory card. When he took it into the store, the clerk asked if he’d completely filled the card with images – and when he nodded, he was told that this could occasionally cause problems with some types of cards.

Let me be clear: I’ve not heard this advice before, and I’m somewhat skeptical about it myself, but it’s probably worth keeping in mind. The advice would be to regularly take images off your cards rather than only removing images when the cards are full; this is a good idea anyway because it’ll prevent significant heartbreak if you lose the card or the files are corrupted.

9. Periodically reformat your cards

This memory card tip is quick but essential:

Reformat your memory cards every so often, and do it with your camera, not your computer. This will clean the card and get it ready for a new batch of images. Of course, you should only do this after you’ve downloaded all files – otherwise, you’ll lose them!

10. Format your memory cards in the right camera

As I discussed in the previous tip, it’s a good idea to format your memory card in a camera. But you shouldn’t format the card in just any camera; instead, make sure you format it in the camera you plan to shoot with.

For instance, if you’ve been using your card in your Canon DSLR but want to start using it in your Canon mirrorless camera, you should safely store all the images, then reformat the card when you put it in the mirrorless camera for the first time.

11. Switch off your camera before removing the memory card

Years ago, it was said that a camera could give a card “voltage shock” when the card was pulled out of the camera without first turning the camera off. But while manufacturers seem to have since made improvements in this area, it’s better to be safe than sorry! That’s why I recommend you always turn off your camera before you remove a card.

(Additionally, if your camera is on, it might still be in the process of writing images – and if you remove the card, those images may become corrupted or go unwritten.)

12. Transfer photos as soon as you can

There’s a simple rule I follow: transfer your photos as soon as possible. Why? Memory cards are reliable, but they’re not infallible. The longer your images sit on a card, the higher the risk of loss, either through card failure or misplacement.

I’ve made it a habit: every time I return from a shoot, I transfer my images to my desktop hard drives. Then, once the images are safely transferred and backed up, I delete them from the card. This routine ensures I always have a fresh card ready for my next adventure.

But there’s another reason for this habit: untransferred images are easily forgotten. You might capture an amazing moment, only to forget about its impact and relevance when it sits unseen on a card for months.

13. Keep your camera up to date

Every so often, camera manufacturers will release firmware updates, which keep your camera up to date and include fixes for errors or problems that are identified with the camera.

Some of these fixes can relate to the camera’s interaction with the memory card, so I encourage you to check for camera firmware updates every few months and download them as needed.

14. Periodically update your cards

Memory cards can last a long time – even years. However, like all electronics, they wear down with constant use, so it’s important that you update your set of cards periodically to prevent issues.

Fortunately, memory card prices are always dropping, so updating your cards has become a surprisingly inexpensive task!

15. Replace batteries before they die

When you’re on a photoshoot, it’s important that you keep an eye on your battery levels – and if the battery does get low, either pause for a recharge or swap it out for a fresh one.

You see, when a battery runs out just as you take a shot, it can prevent your camera from writing the image to your card. This can also cause card errors, so make sure you keep an eye on those batteries!

16. Don’t switch off your camera too quickly after shooting

This one really depends on your camera model. If you fire off a burst of photos, your camera will need a little time to write all of the data to the memory card – and if you switch the camera off during this process, some cameras will simply lose the images and even end up with errors.

However, recent models will continue buffering even after you switch them off (thus avoiding the problem). If you’re not sure how your camera handles the issue, check the manual or do some Googling.

17. Keep your memory cards safe

Perhaps this memory card tip should go without saying, but whenever you’re shooting, do what you can to keep your cards safe.

Make sure the cards stay dry and clean – a dedicated memory card case is perfect for this – don’t expose them to extreme temperatures, don’t drop, bend, or puncture them, and don’t expose them to electromagnetic currents.

That way, your cards remain in good condition for years!

18. Prepare your cards in case they’re lost

This last one is optional, but if you’re afraid that you might lose your camera and/or memory card, you might try taking a picture of a luggage tag or business card complete with your contact details, then keep it as the first image on each of your memory cards.

Then lock the image so it’s not deleted. If you lose your camera or card and an honest person finds it, they’ll hopefully see the image and get in touch!

How to use camera memory cards: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to take care of your memory cards – and you’re well-equipped to prevent common card errors.

Bottom line: Having backup cards, organizing them effectively, transferring photos promptly, treating them with care, and more – these aren’t just recommendations, they’re necessities for any photographer who values their work. Implementing these habits will save you from the heartache and frustration that come with memory card mishaps.

So remember the tips I’ve shared, keep your memory cards safe, and (with a bit of luck) you won’t run into any issues.

Now over to you:

Do you have any memory card tips that I missed? Share them in the comments below!

The post How to Use Camera Memory Cards: 18 Essential Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

This article was updated in January 2025 with contributions by seven expert photographers: Andrew S Gibson, Mat Coker, Kevin Landwer-Johan, Bobby Roy, Peter West Carey, Trisha Bartle, and Jaymes Dempsey.

Candid photography is a great way to capture spontaneous, honest images, the type of shots that tell real stories about their subjects. But taking candid photos can be difficult – even stressful – especially if you’ve never done it before.

Fortunately, there are plenty of tips and techniques that pro-level candid photographers use to get consistently great results, and in this article, I aim to share them all, including:

• How to photograph without drawing attention to yourself
• A simple technique to keep your subjects acting natural (even once they’ve noticed you)
• The right candid photography settings and gear for sharp, well-exposed images
• Plenty of resources for amazing candid portraits and candid wedding shots

I also cover the basics, including what candid photography is and whether it’s legal. So if you’re ready to add that authentic feel to photos you take of loved ones, portrait subjects, street scenes, wedding shots, and more, let’s dive right in!

What is candid photography?

Candid photography is any photo that captures an authentic, unposed moment. It’s about preserving genuine expressions, emotions, and interactions without any forced poses or awareness of the camera. Instead of arranging the scene or instructing subjects to pose, candid photography aims to document life as it unfolds organically.

In this style of photography, images are often taken while subjects are often engrossed in their activities or simply being themselves. The photographer’s role is to observe and seize those fleeting, authentic moments that reveal the true essence of the subject.

That said, some candid photos are taken with the subject’s awareness. During a wedding, for instance, guests often know that the camera is pointed in their direction, but they still act naturally, resulting in beautiful candid shots. The key here is the authenticity of the photo; whether or not the subject knows they’re being photographed, if the image is authentic, then it’s a candid shot.

When is candid photography useful?

Candid photography is incredibly useful in various situations and genres, allowing you to capture spontaneous and natural moments.

After all, you won’t always be in a position to engage with your subject. And sometimes doing so will disrupt a natural flow of events. So when you find yourself in situations where you think you or your camera will alter the scene, it’s good to remain candid.

Here are some specific genres where candid photography shines:

• Portrait photography: Candid portraits offer a wonderful authenticity compared to posed shots. They effectively capture the true essence of your subject. During a portrait session, you can encourage your subjects to act naturally or engage in activities, discreetly photographing them as they do. You can also seize candid opportunities between poses or while transitioning from one location to another.
• Wedding and event photography: Candid wedding and event photography is very popular – and for good reason! These occasions present a multitude of possibilities, from capturing the bride getting ready to the groom adjusting his tie, and guests enjoying themselves at the reception. Candid shots in these scenarios are often effortless and stress-free, as the subjects are typically accepting of the camera’s presence while being engrossed in the main event.
• Street photography: Almost all street photography relies on candid shots taken without the subject’s consent. The goal of a street photographer is to remain unnoticed, capturing individuals in their natural states. Street candids can encompass wide street landscapes, interactions between a few subjects, or a solitary person lost in thought, walking through the rain, or simply observing their surroundings.
• Travel photography: When exploring different destinations, candid shots can help depict the unique essence of a place. Travel candid photography often resembles street photography, highlighting the people, clothing, lighting, and architecture that make a location distinctive.

Plus, taking candid photos is a fun challenge. You don’t get to direct the scene, and you have to take whatever the moment offers.

And if you’re part of the activity or event, when doing candid photography, you really get to see what is going on. Many people complain that they miss out on a group or family experience because they’re always taking pictures. If you focus more on seeing candid moments than on clicking away, you may find that you’re more in tune with events than ever before. As the great candid photographer Dorothea Lange said, “The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera.”

Is it legal to take candid photos?

While candid photography without consent is generally legal in many places, such as the United States, the rules can vary depending on your location. It’s crucial to check the laws of the specific place where you plan to do candid photography to avoid any legal trouble.

That said, candid photography with consent is widely accepted and legal almost everywhere. This means that if you’re in an area where shooting without consent is prohibited, you can still capture some fantastic candid shots by simply asking for permission first. Once your subject agrees, you can take photos as they naturally go about their activities.

The best candid photography settings

What are the best camera settings for capturing good candid moments?

If you don’t understand your camera very well, then begin with Auto mode. Being on Auto means that you don’t need to think about camera settings at all. You can just focus on seeing the future and being ready for moments.

The problem, however, is that Auto mode is going to let you down quite often by capturing photos that are overexposed (too bright), underexposed (too dark), or blurry.

So you should begin to learn about ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. Once you understand these three things, you’ll understand many of the technical problems in your photos.

When you’re ready to move away from Auto mode, I highly recommend using Aperture Priority along with exposure compensation. Choose the aperture for its creative effect (f/1.8 for a shallow depth of field – f/16 for a greater depth of field). Let the camera figure out the rest. Then just focus on capturing the moment. Use exposure compensation when photos keep coming out too dark or too bright.

When you’re ready for a real challenge, you can try moving onto Manual mode. But even when you’re comfortable in Manual mode, you may find yourself scrambling with settings too much while trying to capture candid moments.

When you get good at anticipating moments, you can take a couple of test shots and look at the exposure. You can adjust your settings and still be ready to capture the moment that you know is coming.

And once you’re fully comfortable with how your camera works, you’ll forget about it in the moment!

How to take stunning candid photos: 23 general tips and tricks

Struggling to take the kind of candid shots you can be proud of? Here are 16 tips to instantly improve your photos:

1. Take your camera everywhere

The best way to take spontaneous photos? Always have a camera! That way, when the moment presents itself, you can quickly flick the On button, snag a few shots, and (if all goes well!) get a great result.

When I’m on a shoot, I’ll use my DSLR – but when I’m between shoots, I carry a point-and-shoot camera. If I see a good opportunity, I’ll whip it out and capture the scene. Of course, you don’t need to head out and buy an expensive second body – these days, smartphone cameras are very high quality and more than adequate for most candid photography.

Also, taking a camera everywhere helps people become more comfortable with you taking their photo. I find that my friends and family just expect me to have my camera out, so when I do fire it up, it’s not a signal to pose, it’s just a normal part of our interaction. And when I do take an image or two, the subjects are relaxed and the photos look natural.

2. Learn to see the future

Initially, it may feel as if you have no control over moments. Everything is chaotic and you have no idea when a moment is going to happen. But with practice, you’ll feel like you actually have a lot of control over spontaneous moments.

In order to capture good candid moments, you need to be able to see the future. Seeing the future means developing the ability to anticipate what is about to happen before it does.

Some things are easy to anticipate because they are so predictable. The sun rises and sets every day. If you want a nice photo of the sunrise you know exactly when it’s going to happen.

But how about anticipating less predictable moments? You don’t know exactly when a storm is going to arise or exactly what form it will take. If you want to photograph storms you’ll need to watch how they behave across the seasons. Where I live it’s very rare to have a thunderstorm, but you can feel it in the air when one is coming.

Still other things, such as people, seem completely unpredictable. Take toddlers for example. Who knows what they’re going to do at any moment?

But even something as seemingly random and chaotic as the behavior of toddlers is predictable. It just takes a bit longer to notice the pattern.

Patterns are the key to seeing moments before they happen.

Patterns are woven into our culture, our relationships and our personality.

Pay attention to the things you love to photograph, watch for patterns, and take note. Your ability to anticipate moments will increase over time if you observe and practice regularly.

Learn to anticipate moments by looking for patterns. Once you can do this, you’ll be able to see the future (which has benefits beyond photography). When you sense a moment approaching, the worst thing you can do is interrupt.

3. Use a long focal length

To capture candid photography without being noticed, try shooting with a long lens – a 135mm prime, an 18-200mm zoom, or a 70-200mm zoom, for instance. As you’ve probably already guessed, the farther you are from your subject, the less likely they are to know that you’re taking pictures, and the more natural and relaxed they’ll act.

Depending on the environment, though, a long lens can be pretty noticeable, and it may actually make people feel uncomfortable (like they’re being spied on). So choose your lens wisely, and if you are concerned about people’s reactions, consider picking your most compact zoom.

That way, you can get your candid shots from outside people’s personal space, you can go unnoticed, and you can maintain a feeling of intimacy in your compositions.

Alternatively:

4. Use a small camera with a small lens

Another approach is to use a small camera with a small lens and get in much closer to the action. The idea here is that the small camera gives you the perception that you are less intimidating than somebody using a large DSLR setup. You are much more likely to be able to take photos without being noticed or to be ignored if you are.

For instance, you might use a smaller mirrorless camera, a point-and-shoot camera, or even your smartphone. And as for lenses, a standard 50mm f/1.8 lens can do a great job and is very inconspicuous, though if you like a wide-angle look, you might grab a 35mm prime instead!

Personally, I really enjoy using a wider lens; the beauty is that you can get in close and photograph people without them even being aware that you are doing so. How? Simply place them at the edge of the frame, or on one of the thirds. The camera will point away from them and they may not even be aware that they are being photographed.

And even if they notice you, as long as you don’t look at them or make eye contact, they will think you are photographing a completely different subject! Of course, this works best when there is something interesting there that a tourist would naturally take a photo of.

5. Kill the flash

Perhaps the most obvious way you can signal to another person that you’re photographing them? Using a flash (especially the flash on the top of your camera!). After all, there’s nothing like a blinding flash of light to get people’s attention and kill a moment.

So if possible, keep your flash off for candid shots. When you’re shooting in low light, instead of using flash, try boosting your ISO, opening up your aperture, or dropping your shutter speed.

You’ll get a brighter exposure, and you’ll avoid making your subject uncomfortable.

6. Go when the light is beautiful

Beautiful light is key to creating evocative portraits that capture the spirit and atmosphere of a place. You’ll increase your chances of creating beautiful images exponentially by going out when the light is beautiful.

Of course, when doing candid photography, you can’t always choose the lighting, the cloud cover, or the time of day – but whenever possible, get out at the end of the day during the golden hour. There is also lots of potential during dusk, especially with the mix of artificial and natural light that you find in urban environments.

7. Wait for your subject to look away or drop their pose

Capturing the perfect candid shot often requires a bit of patience and keen observation. When photographing subjects who are highly aware of your presence, such as during portrait sessions or events, it can be challenging to capture their genuine, natural expressions.

Here’s what you can do: Instead of hurriedly turning away when your subject notices you, simply give them a warm smile or act as though you’re adjusting your camera settings. You may keep their attention for a moment, but after a few beats, something magical will happen:

As they become absorbed in the flow of the activity around them, they’ll forget about your presence and start acting naturally once again. That’s when you seize the opportunity, swiftly raise your camera to your eye, and capture that spontaneous, unposed shot.

8. Let them know you’re coming

This approach obviously won’t work for certain types of candid shots, but if you’re photographing a family gathering or intimate event, it can make a big difference.

You see, at a family gathering, someone is always taking photos. Most people like to ham it up for the camera or will avoid it like the plague. Letting your family know beforehand that you’ll be taking some photos and that they should act natural will greatly increase your odds of capturing the essence of the moment.

Not everyone will heed this request, but it’s good for people to know they should generally ignore your photo-taking; that way, people won’t act unnatural, and you won’t distract them from the event.

9. Take a lot of images

Back in the film days, it was important to conserve your photos. But if you use a digital camera (and I’m guessing you do!), there’s no real need to hold back; instead, be aggressive with your shooting. Don’t be afraid to take many images of the same subject.

In fact, I’ve found that, when shooting a burst of images of a person, I can sometimes get some surprising and spontaneous shots that I’d never have captured otherwise.

So switch your camera to its continuous shooting mode (i.e., burst mode), and fire off several shots at once. You’ll significantly increase your chances of capturing an unexpectedly perfect candid image.

10. Position yourself strategically

While candid photography is all about capturing the spontaneity of a moment and getting a perfect shot during that split second of time, if you think ahead and anticipate what is about to unfold, you can increase your chances of success.

So at a wedding, get to the church early (or even go to the rehearsal) and think about what will happen during the ceremony. Where should you stand to capture each moment? Which way will people be facing? What will they be doing? What will the light be like?

If you ask these questions in advance, you won’t waste time running around and repositioning yourself when the action happens. And you’ll be in the perfect spot to capture candid moments when they do occur.

11. Carefully work each scene

Candid photography, whether it’s photojournalism, lifestyle, street, wildlife, or travel photography, is about exploring. So don’t just take one photo and walk away. Begin taking photos before the moment actually happens and continue taking photos after it has passed. Be vigilant and ready for all the other moments that are about to unfold.

Ideally, you should walk away from an encounter having learned something. Perhaps you’ve seen a deeper pattern, better predicted a moment, or were rewarded with a great photograph for being there sooner and staying longer.

And remember: candid moments are about presence. You need to be there and be part of the moment. Yes, you’re standing back just far enough to capture a photo, but you’re just as much a part of the moments you capture as the people and places in your photos.

You’re not expecting to walk into a scene, snap one amazing candid shot and move on. You’ve got to be around long enough to understand what’s going on and begin to see the future.

It’s never the moment you think. You anticipate what’s going to happen and even when you capture a great moment, there are more to come. Some will surprise you completely as you begin to see new patterns you haven’t noticed before. Patterns run pretty deep, and you need to be able to see some simple ones before the deeper ones reveal themselves.

12. Shoot through store and restaurant windows

If you’re eager to capture candid street photos but concerned about drawing attention, here’s a cool little technique: Shoot through windows of stores and restaurants. It’s a fantastic way to photograph without disturbing the natural flow of the scene.

Take a stroll through a bustling area in a nearby city, keeping an eye out for interesting subjects. As you walk, glance through the windows of establishments you pass by. Often, people inside are absorbed in their activities and don’t notice what’s happening outside, which gives you the perfect opportunity to discreetly capture candid moments.

Make sure your camera settings are adjusted to handle the lower lighting conditions indoors. When you spot a captivating subject worth photographing, swiftly raise your camera, seize the candid shot, and continue on your way!

13. Photograph people doing things

Personally, I find that images of people doing things are much more interesting than images of people sitting around doing nothing. And they tend to feature more natural compositions, too.

For one, your subject will be focused on something that adds energy to a photo. It also adds context and an element of storytelling (plus, it’ll take the focus off of you!).

Timing is everything in candid photography, so wait until your subject is fully focused on their activity. This will inject a feeling of authenticity into your shots, where your subject is unaware and the viewer can look on unseen.

Note that your subject doesn’t need to be doing something especially involved or complex – they might be dancing, talking, playing a game, etc.

14. Get your subject to interact with the environment

If you’re doing a portrait photoshoot and you want to capture some candid images, it can be a challenge to make your subject feel relaxed and act natural, especially if you’ve spent the first half of the session taking posed shots. Fortunately, you can often speed the process along by encouraging your subject to look away from the camera and engage with their surroundings.

Imagine you’re in a picturesque park. Instead of simply instructing your subject to stand and smile, invite them to have some fun with the environment around them. Encourage them to scramble up a gentle slope, lean down to catch the scent of a blooming flower, or take a joyful run down a winding forest path.

If you’re shooting in an urban setting, suggest climbing a flight of steps, gazing up at stunning architectural wonders, or even waving to people passing by. The key is to inspire your subject to interact with their surroundings naturally.

By redirecting their focus from the camera to the environment, you’ll create a relaxed atmosphere where your subject can genuinely express themselves. As they engage with the surroundings, their gestures, expressions, and body language will become more authentic, resulting in captivating candid shots that truly reflect their personality.

Remember, the more your subject immerses themselves in the environment, the less self-conscious they’ll feel about being photographed!

15. Photograph people with people

When you photograph more than one person at a time, something very interesting happens:

You introduce a relationship into the photo. Even if the two (or more) people aren’t really interacting, you’ll still get increased depth and a sense of story.

Of course, the ideal candid compositions will have some interaction between your subjects, as that will add emotion to the shot – but even without interaction, you can still capture some stunning images.

16. Shoot from the hip

Here’s a quick tip for shooting unnoticed, courtesy of street photographers:

Choose a relatively wide lens, such as a 35mm. Set your camera’s shutter to its quietest setting. Position the camera down low, either at chest height or at your hip.

And then, when your subject moves into position, fire off a burst of shots without raising the camera to your eye.

This technique can be very hit or miss, and you may want to think about zone focusing (where you prefocus your lens and use a narrow aperture for a deep depth of field). But when it works, it really works – your subject remains completely unaware of your presence, they don’t tense up or act unnatural, and you get your candid images.

17. Pretend to be photographing behind your subject

If you’re out on the street and spot a fantastic subject you want to capture candidly, play the role of a tourist. Act as if you’re photographing the broader scene: the bustling street, the picturesque park, or the city skyline. Aim your camera in different directions as though you’re contemplating various expansive compositions.

By adopting this approach, your intended candid subject will often ignore you completely. And even if they do notice, they’ll likely assume you’re photographing something else and continue going about their business. It’s a clever way to blend in and capture those authentic moments without drawing unnecessary attention.

18. Change your perspective

Photos taken from standing height can look fine, and sure, there are plenty of great shots taken with the camera held in that eye-level area. But if you want to mix things up and capture some truly striking photos, why not change your perspective?

For instance, get down low and shoot upward, or find a nice vantage point and shoot downward. You can climb stairs, walk over bridges, crouch on the ground – whatever you need to do to get the photo (while staying unnoticed).

Also, if you do like the low-angle shot but feel uncomfortable crouching while doing candid photography (it is somewhat attention-grabbing, after all!), try shooting from the hip (as discussed above). While your shots may turn out crooked, it’s an interesting effect that some photographers like and can lend a sense of randomness and realness to a scene.

19. Watch your backgrounds

When capturing candid photos, it’s easy to become hyper-focused on the people in the scene. However, it’s important to remember that while candid shots are all about the subject, the background plays a crucial role, too. A distracting or cluttered background can draw the viewer’s attention away from the subject and diminish the impact of the photo.

So before pressing the shutter, take a moment to assess the background. Ensure the backdrop features non-distracting elements, such as a stand of trees or a clean brick wall. And if your subject happens to be positioned in front of a problematic backdrop, don’t fret. Simply adjust your angle and position to find a better perspective!

Alternatively, you can also use a wide aperture to create a shallow depth of field, which will naturally blur out any distracting elements in the background. However, keep in mind that this technique works best when you are relatively close to your subject.

20. Frame images with foreground elements

If you want to create more three-dimensional, layered compositions, I highly recommend composing with your subject as the focal point – but then including an element in the foreground, such as a tree, a person’s shoulder, the frame of a doorway, a window, etc.

Feel free to get creative. The point is to add a foreground element that can contribute context and depth to the shot, but you can have fun widening your aperture for out-of-focus foreground bokeh.

The ultimate goal is to create that sense of standing outside looking in. It’s a great complement to a candid moment, and when done well, can add a sense of mystery to the composition.

21. Take posed shots into candid territory

It may sound strange, but one of my favorite times to shoot candid images is when other photographers are taking formal ones.

Why? Well, during posed images, everyone is focused on the directing photographer, not you. So if, for instance, a wedding photographer is shooting a series of posed images, you can capture some wonderful candid moments simply by standing off to the side and taking a few images of your own.

I’d also recommend zooming in with a telephoto lens to capture more intimate scenes, and you might also try zooming right out to get shots of the subject plus the photographer.

By the way, if you’re the only photographer at an event or photoshoot, and you’re the one taking the posed shots, I’d recommend continuing to shoot after everyone thinks you’ve finished. It’s often these shots – captured moments after the posed images end – that look the best, because people relax, smile naturally, laugh, and look at each other.

22. Look for candid moments in nature

Even nature (flowers, landscapes, water) has candid moments. After all, we don’t normally pose our nature photos. We come upon nature doing something interesting and we make a photograph.

Nature’s moments are constantly changing. Think about a simple landscape. That landscape will look quite different depending on the time of day, from season to season, and in different weather.

And when photographing people, you can combine candid human moments with candid nature moments to create a more powerful shot.

For instance, combine these people moments:

• Action
• Emotion
• Mystery

With these nature moments:

• Season
• Weather
• Time of day

And see what you can create!

23. Enjoy the process

Don’t put too much pressure on yourself. An empty memory card can be as terrifying for a photographer as a blank piece of paper (or empty computer screen) is for a writer.

One way to get started is to take a photo of anything remotely interesting. It doesn’t really matter what it is, but I find that taking the first photo gets my creativity going and puts me in the right frame of mind to start seeing other images. Remember that you are there to enjoy the day, the sights, and the process of exploration and meeting new people, as well as photography.

Candid portrait photography advice

Specifically looking to capture stunning candid portraits? Below, I explain everything you need to know, including:

• My favorite ways to find candid portrait subjects
• How to capture candid portraiture without intimidating your subject
• How to develop your skills in a fun, easy way

Let’s dive right in!

1. Look for expressions that capture character

If you want to capture beautiful candid images, don’t simply set your camera to burst mode and fire away. Instead, watch your potential subject. And wait for a meaningful expression – one that really sums up their personality.

For instance, if you’re hoping to capture a nice candid shot of a fashion model, you might engage in some regular photography. Ask them to pose normally, to make their standard expressions, while you shoot.

But then, when you take short breaks from shooting, pay attention. Wait for those moments when your model is relaxed. And ask yourself: How do they behave when the camera isn’t pointing at them? How do they respond when you speak with them? What expressions do you notice? What unconscious gestures do they make?

When you see an expression that truly encapsulates their personality, capture it!

2. Make the most of random encounters

I remember my first evening taking photos in Bolivia. It was late afternoon, quickly fading to dusk, and the streets were lit by a soft red glow.

I raised my camera to take a photo of a mud-brick building. But out of the corner of my eye, I saw a small boy running down the street. He passed in front of the camera, stopped, turned toward me, and started waving his hands in the air. He obviously wanted to be in a photo, and a few seconds later, he was joined by an older boy, presumably his brother, who also posed. Then they continued on down the street and beckoned me along.

Curious, I followed, and they led me to a car parked around the corner, where their father was waiting for them. They explained what had happened, and then the father asked me to take a photo of all of them together. He was a little drunk, and he even invited me to their house for dinner. I politely declined, but I did take this image:

Is the portrait candid? I think so. The subjects knew I had a camera, but they were acting naturally, and I didn’t pose them. Regardless, the lesson is still a good one:

When you’re traveling and people are friendly, take advantage of the photo opportunities! Be open to random encounters. Recognize the possibilities that can arise.

At the very least, you will have some new stories to tell.

3. Use a small camera and lens

Technically, you can do candid portraiture with any gear, from a huge, hulking medium-format camera to a tiny smartphone device.

But my advice, based on a lot of experience, is to keep your setup as small as possible.

You see, the larger your camera and lens, the more you’ll stand out as a photographer. If you’re trying to document a wedding, your subjects will notice you before you get a chance to shoot. If you’re trying to do candid portraiture on the street, people will see you coming from a mile off and turn away.

Plus, large equipment is intimidating. A friend of mine is an experienced model, and she told me – after a shoot in which I used a small mirrorless camera and a small lens – that the smaller setup helped her feel more relaxed. She didn’t feel as much pressure to be a good model.

Even if you’re doing a mixture of posed and candid photography, a smaller camera will keep the subject more relaxed overall, which will mean more opportunities for wonderful candid frames!

That’s why I recommend using a setup like this one:

And if you find that slimming down your setup makes a big difference, go smaller! Purchase a small point-and-shoot camera, or even switch to your smartphone. (These days, smartphone cameras are capable of pretty impressive images, so don’t let technical concerns hold you back!)

4. Ask for permission – and explain why

If you’re just starting out with candid portrait photography, you may feel uncomfortable shooting people that you don’t know – such as street performers, diners, and even passersby.

My recommendation? Ask for permission, and when you do, clearly state a good reason.

First of all, giving people a reason makes them more likely to accept. You don’t seem like a random stalker if you explain why you want to photograph them, even if the reason is trivial.

Plus, if you have a reason in mind, asking for permission becomes far easier. You’ll feel justified in your approach, and so you’ll feel less awkward and shy.

For example, a few weeks ago I visited a blacksmith’s forge. The smiths there do demonstrations of older techniques for the visiting public, and I simply asked if I could take some photos while the smith was doing his demonstration. The smiths had zero issues with my request, and the result is a natural candid portrait of someone at work:

Another example: At Carnival in Cádiz, there were lots of people dressed in costume but only a few with face paint. When I saw somebody with interesting face paint, I explained that I really liked their makeup, and I asked if I could take a photo or two. In each case, the person agreed, I waited for a natural expression, then grabbed an image. Here’s one of my favorites:

5. Start a candid portraiture project

If you’re looking to really expand your candid portrait horizons, then instead of capturing random shots, I encourage you to start a project.

That way, you can tackle candid portraiture on a regular basis, and you can really dig in and elevate your skills.

The project doesn’t have to be especially complex, but it should have a clear theme or angle. For instance, you could photograph people at the park, you could photograph supermarket workers, or you could photograph cyclists.

Once you’ve identified your project topic, research your subject, figure out how to best take candid shots, and make a significant effort to shoot regularly. (Note that your project doesn’t need to only feature candid images. But if you’re looking to improve your candid portraiture, I do recommend you shoot candids whenever possible.)

Early last year, I thought it would be interesting to take some photos of people practicing parkour; this became my project idea, and I got in touch with some local traceurs through a Facebook group. Some of them were interested in a shoot, so we went out into the streets of Wellington, and they showed me parkour. I took photos and portraits as we went along. It was easy to create candid portraits because they were enjoying what they were doing and having fun!

6. Take photos of friends doing interesting things

If you’re struggling to find subjects for your candid portraits, try looking close to home.

You see, friends – and even family – are great candid photography subjects. For one, they know you, and so they’re more likely to be relaxed in your presence. Plus, you can have a fun portrait session that combines candid photography and socializing!

As I emphasized above, you’ll need to be observant, and you’ll need to snap photos when your subject isn’t paying attention to the camera – when they’ve let their guard down. It can be tough to talk with someone and take candid images, but if you’re focused, you can do it!

A piece of advice: When you tell your subject about your interest in candid portraits, set a clear theme. If your subject likes cycling, ask them to bring their bike, and prepare to take some candid portraits of a cyclist in action. And if your subject likes to play music, ask them to bring a guitar, and photograph them as they strum a few chords.

For example, a friend of mine made her own gypsy caravan. I thought it was a fantastic tiny space project, so once it was finished, I asked her if I could take some photos. She sat outside and played guitar, we talked about the project, and I made a few candid portraits:

Candid wedding photography: tips and advice

Weddings have changed drastically in the past few years. These days, couples want more from a wedding photographer than rigidly posed shots; they frequently prefer candid wedding photography because it captures the emotions of the couple and the guests enjoying themselves without needing to line everybody up in front of the camera.

Below, we share tips and advice for shooting weddings in an effective yet unobtrusive way. That way, the next time you get booked for a wedding, you’re ready to create an array of stunning candid images!

1. Always be ready

This is the biggest candid wedding photography tip that I can give you:

No matter what’s going on, always be ready to shoot.

In particular, make sure that you’re always keeping an eye out for interesting moments. You never know what will happen, and if you stop paying attention to the scene around you, there’s a chance that you’ll miss something phenomenal. It’s a good idea to frequently scan the room to check for moments in the making, and even when you have your camera to your eye, make sure you’re hyperaware of the action around you.

Of course, you can’t capture candid moments without equipment, so it’s essential that you always keep that camera ready. Make sure it’s in your hands and prepared to shoot at a moment’s notice. Set your camera according to the lighting conditions, and if necessary, use Aperture Priority mode so exposure decisions are made for you on the fly. You don’t want to be fiddling around with camera settings when the action starts!

Pro tip: Whenever you notice your battery or your memory card getting low, look for a lull in the action, then quickly swap it out. Don’t wait for your camera to die or the memory card to fill up completely; as I said above, you never know what’s going to happen, so it’s important that you’re always ready to photograph.

2. Know your equipment

I touched on this in the previous tip, but it’s so important that it deserves a section of its own. I’ve seen countless photographers miss shots while they are trying to change the camera settings – don’t be that person!

Instead, you must know your equipment like the back of your hand. Semi-automatic modes such as Aperture Priority are helpful and can relieve some of the pressure, but they’re not perfect and can cause problems from time to time, so it’s important you understand exactly how your camera works in case you need to make settings adjustments or take over completely.

Plus, even if you use Aperture Priority mode, you’ll need to select an aperture, an ISO, a metering mode, an autofocus mode, an autofocus area mode, and a white balance. In other words, you’ll need to really know what you are doing!

Here are just a few items to bear in mind:

• The shutter speed must be carefully managed to keep your shots sharp. Make sure that you’re always shooting at 1/100s or higher, and if your subject is moving, you’ll generally need to work at 1/250s, 1/500s, or even at 1/1000s.
• It’s usually a good idea to set a wider aperture to let in more light, though bear in mind that wider apertures will decrease the depth of field, so you’ll need to choose your point of focus carefully.
• When shooting indoors, you’ll generally need a higher ISO to allow for the faster shutter speeds I mentioned above. Don’t be afraid to push your camera’s ISO to 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, and beyond – though also recognize that higher ISOs tend to produce lots of noise, so you don’t want to boost the ISO more than necessary.
• If you’re shooting in RAW (which I highly recommend!), it often helps to set your camera’s white balance to Auto, then make tweaks in post-processing. You won’t sacrifice any flexibility by using such an approach – the RAW files can be effectively adjusted in a program like Lightroom – and it’ll save you from needing to adjust the WB setting as the lighting scenarios change.

By the way, you should also be able to change settings without consulting the manual or fiddling around in the menus. It can help to practice making settings adjustments while relaxing on the couch, watching a movie, talking on the phone, etc.

3. Use a telephoto zoom lens

Candid wedding photography is all about taking pictures of the bride, groom, guests, etc., without being noticed. You won’t capture beautiful candid moments if you’re hovering a few inches from the bride with a camera pointed in her face!

That’s why I highly recommend working with a telephoto zoom lens. I regularly shoot weddings with 70-200mm or even 100-400mm lenses if capturing candid moments is the priority. These longer lenses may seem unwieldy at first, but you’ll soon be impressed by how they can help you capture the action and emotions without actively distracting the people involved.

Additionally, a long zoom will help maintain a level of intimacy, which is essential in wedding photography. Try dialing in a wide aperture to really emphasize that shallow depth of field effect; it’s a great technique if you’re hoping to make the bride and groom look as if they’re in their own little world!

Of course, it’s also handy to keep a shorter lens around for wider candid scenes and other key shots. Many wedding photographers carry two cameras, each with a different lens, and I recommend you do the same. That way, you can capture plenty of powerful images – no matter your distance from the subject.

4. Don’t use flash

Plenty of wedding photographers like to use flash, especially for posed photos – but when it comes to candid wedding photoshoots, carrying a flash is a very bad idea.

Why? One surefire way to get noticed by your subjects is to fire that flash, whether it’s a dedicated flash gun or the pop-up flash on your camera. As soon as you’ve been noticed, your subjects will become self-conscious, and you’ll lose the beautiful candid effect.

And I’ll be honest: Light from a flash tends to be rather unflattering and boring. Yes, a flash can brighten things up, but if there’s a lack of light, I’d recommend boosting the exposure rather than adding flash. You might try widening the aperture, increasing the ISO, or slowing the shutter speed (if you have room). You can also shoot in areas of the room with more illumination, though don’t make this a habit; you don’t want to miss shots in the middle of the dance floor because you’re always hanging out by a window!

5. Make sure you plan ahead

As a candid wedding photographer, it is your job to predict what is going to happen before it does (or, at least, take a calculated guess!). If you can, I’d suggest visiting the location before the wedding and really getting a feel for the space and the lighting. While you’re there, see if you can identify potential backgrounds for photos; even if you don’t end up using them, it helps to have a few ideas in your back pocket, just in case.

If you’re unable to visit the location beforehand, then at least arrive at the venue well before the function is to start. Walk around, think about possible photo ideas, and identify any potential obstacles (such as unusually dark rooms or strong backlighting).

Then, when it’s time for the wedding to start, don’t get so caught up in the flow of the proceedings that you forget all about your careful planning and scouting. Be sure to remember your photo ideas and keep a cool head. A little bit of planning goes a long way in getting some great shots!

A guide to candid photography: final words

Hopefully, you now feel much more confident as a candid photographer, and you’re ready to start taking some beautiful shots of your own! Whether you’re hoping to snap candid portraits that reveal the true essence of your subject, capture some magical candid wedding photos, or explore new destinations with your camera, candid photography opens up a world of possibilities.

Remember that candid shooting is a powerful tool in your creative arsenal, allowing you to capture the raw, unfiltered moments that make life truly remarkable – so whenever you get the chance, give it a try!

Now over to you:

What type of candid photography do you plan to try? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Candid photography FAQ

The post Candid Photography: The Essential Guide (+34 Expert Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Have you ever felt like your photos were missing something essential? A shallow depth of field effect is one of my favorite ways to take your images from “zero” to “hero.”

You see, thanks to shallow DoF techniques, you can capture shots that are both artistic and professional. Of course, controlling the depth of field isn’t always a walk in the park, but it can be done, even if you’re a beginner.

In this article, I’ll share everything you need to know about shallow depth of field, including:

• What shallow depth of field actually is
• Why shallow depth of field is useful in photography
• Six easy ways to create that gorgeous shallow depth of field effect
• Tips and tricks to improve your shallow DoF images!

Sound good? Let’s dive right in, starting with a simple definition:

What is a shallow depth of field in photography?

A shallow depth of field refers to an effect where only a small portion of the image is in focus while the rest of the image turns to blur.

For instance, a portrait photo might include an in-focus person but have a blurred-out background:

A macro photo might highlight a sharp flower while letting the background turn into a beautiful wash of color:

And a food photo might feature a crisp dessert against a dark blur:

Note that the magic happens where your lens focuses; that’s the sharpest part of the photo, and that’s where the sliver of in-focus material will appear.

Professional photographers often employ this technique for stunning results. But it’s important to recognize that using a shallow depth of field isn’t the only way to take a great photo. There are alternatives that provide a different aesthetic, as we’ll explore in the next section:

Shallow vs deep depth of field

You’ve probably noticed that not every magazine-worthy photo features a dreamy background, and you’ve also probably captured some nice shots of your own where everything from the foreground to the background is sharp.

That’s what we call deep depth of field, and it’s a technique that landscape photographers frequently use. For instance, in this next shot, everything is in focus: the boats, the sand, and the reflections:

Deep depth of field has its merits. But there’s a reason many photographers often opt for shallow depth of field effects. Unlike deep depth of field, which emphasizes every element of the scene equally, shallow depth of field places the spotlight squarely on your subject for dramatic effect.

Why is a shallow depth of field effect important?

Plenty of photographers love shallow depth of field effects – for two big reasons:

1. A shallow depth of field separates the subject from the background, helping the subject stand out.
2. A shallow depth of field generally blurs the background, which looks really gorgeous (when done right, that is!).

Often, a shallow depth of field is a stylistic choice, one that certain photographers tend to prefer and other photographers like to avoid.

Here’s a list of genres that gravitate toward shallow DOF effects:

• Portrait photography
• Wildlife photography
• Street photography (sometimes)
• Fashion photography
• Product photography (sometimes)

Of course, this list isn’t exhaustive, and regardless, don’t feel hemmed in. If you prefer shallow depth of field but you shoot landscapes, that’s okay – do what you like!

How to get a shallow depth of field effect: 6 techniques

Now let’s take a look at how you can create shallow depth of field effects in your photos:

1. Increase the subject-background distance

It’s one of the easiest ways to achieve a shallow depth of field effect: Position your subject as far away from any background objects as possible.

If your subject is standing right in front of a wall, it’ll be in focus no matter what you do. But if they’re standing 100 meters in front of that same wall, it’s going to be a lot more blurry. Think of it as giving your background more room to blur.

Quick note: Technically, increasing the distance between the subject and the background doesn’t make the depth of field more shallow. The depth of field remains the same regardless (it depends on other factors that I discuss below).

But bringing your subject forward increases the appearance of a shallow depth of field and gives you a near-equivalent effect.

2. Use your camera’s Portrait mode

These days, most beginner cameras include a little wheel on top with lots of little icons on it – the Mode dial. And on certain beginner models, the Mode dial will feature Scene modes, such as Landscape, Night, Sports, etc.

Generally, one of these modes is Portrait. And if you’re uncomfortable using more advanced modes (such as Aperture Priority or Manual mode), Portrait mode is a good way to decrease the depth of field; it sets a large aperture (discussed in the next section!), which will make the depth of field smaller.

Now, Portrait mode doesn’t offer any control over your depth of field effect, so I only recommend you use it if you feel completely lost or have no intention of learning basic camera settings.

And if you do want to gain more control, check out the next method of creating shallow depth of field:

3. Widen your lens’s aperture

Every lens includes an aperture – essentially a hole – that widens or narrows depending on your camera’s aperture setting. And the wider the aperture, the shallower the depth of field.

Portrait mode will automatically widen your aperture. But if you want a greater level of control, I’d recommend using either Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode, which allow you to dial in your preferred aperture (then watch as the background is blurred).

If you’ve never set the aperture before, know that small numbers, such as f/1.8 and f/2.8, correspond to a wide aperture (and hence a shallow depth of field). Large numbers, such as f/16 and f/22, correspond to a narrow aperture (and a deep depth of field).

For ultra-shallow depth of field effects, stick to f/2.8 and wider if possible, though your aperture capabilities will depend on your lens (because all lenses have an aperture maximum).

In fact, if you like the idea of adjusting the aperture to achieve the perfect depth of field effect, I highly recommend you put your camera on Aperture Priority mode, find a subject, and test out a handful of different apertures. Then review each photo carefully, paying attention to how the aperture setting affects the depth of field.

4. Use a long lens (and get close to your subject)

The closer you get to your subject, both optically – by using a long lens – and physically – by moving toward your subject – the shallower the depth of field and the better the background blur.

That’s why the best shallow depth of field portraits tend to be taken on an 85mm lens or a 70-200mm lens, not a 50mm or 35mm lens. The longer focal length makes it easier to get close, which in turn decreases the depth of field. Make sense?

However, if you only own a 35mm lens, don’t worry; you can still create a shallow DOF. You simply need to get close to your subject. Yes, it might be a bit uncomfortable if you’re photographing people – you’ll be shooting from right in front of their face! – but the results will be worth it.

By the way, longer lenses have another advantage over shorter lenses:

They compress the background. The actual effect is difficult to explain, but it leads to a smoother background blur and the appearance of a shallow depth of field.

So if possible, shoot your images from up close – and use a long lens, too. (Don’t get crazy with your focal length, though, especially if you’re photographing people; if you go over 200mm or so, you’ll be forced to back up ridiculously far, which can become unmanageable, plus you’ll lose a level of photographer-subject intimacy.)

5. Get a wide-aperture lens

Previously, I explained that a wide aperture leads to outstanding shallow depth of field effects. I also mentioned that some lenses feature a maximum aperture.

So if you’re serious about achieving a shallow depth of field, a lens with a wide aperture (known as a fast lens) is your friend.

Unfortunately, fast lenses tend to be expensive, but they can also be worth the investment. Plus, there are a few fast primes – such as a 50mm f/1.8 – that are optically impressive, capable of beautiful background blur, and are also quite cheap.

(Fast lenses also let you shoot in low light, which is a major bonus.)

By the way, some lenses offer better background blur than others. So before purchasing, I recommend reading reviews of possible lenses (or at least viewing sample images). Good reviewers will discuss background blur (also known as bokeh), and you can determine whether the lens is right for you.

6. Use a full-frame camera

You might have heard debates among photographers about whether a full-frame sensor truly offers a shallower depth of field than an APS-C sensor. The fact is, it does make a difference, but maybe not in the way you’d think.

Imagine you have two camera setups: one with a full-frame sensor and another with an APS-C sensor. Both setups have identical lenses and settings. You compose two similar shots, you press both shutter buttons, and you look at the files – what do you see? I’ll tell you: The image taken with the full-frame sensor will exhibit a shallower depth of field. It’s subtle but noticeable.

This isn’t some magic trick of the sensor. Rather, it’s about cropping. An APS-C sensor has a crop factor that effectively zooms into the image. To match the composition of a full-frame shot, you’d need to step back. The further you are from your subject, the deeper the depth of field will be – as I explained above -so as a result, full-frame cameras do produce more impressive shallow DoF effects compared to crop-sensor cameras, all else being equal.

Bottom line: If you’re passionate about mastering the art of shallow depth of field, investing in a full-frame camera is a solid move.

Tips for beautiful shallow depth of field effects

Achieving shallow depth of field isn’t mystical or impossible, but it does take some know-how. Here are a few quick tips and tricks to get better results:

1. Consider setting the focus manually

Shallow depth of field effects give you very little room for focusing error – so unless you’re very, very careful, you’ll end up with a lot of near-misses.

For that reason, when you’re shooting still subjects like flowers or even portraits, I’d encourage you to think about switching to manual focus.

Automatic focus systems are good. However, they don’t always focus exactly where you want, and when the depth of field is ultra-limited, that can be disastrous. With manual focus, you gain complete control. You can place that small area of sharpness precisely where you want it – whether it’s a petal or an eye.

2. Don’t forget about composition and lighting

Once you start to get good at producing shallow depth of field shots, it’s tempting to think you’ve hit the jackpot in terms of photography skills. But there’s more to a great image than just bokeh. Depth of field is one tool in your toolbox, and it’s a good one, but it’s not the entire kit.

Let’s consider composition. A well-composed shot guides the viewer’s eye where you want it to go. Depth of field can help with this, but it’s not a cure-all, so it’s important that you compose your images carefully even when you’re working with cool DoF effects.

Lighting is another photography cornerstone. Without proper lighting, even a perfectly blurred background can look flat or uninteresting. Your subject needs to be nicely lit, and that doesn’t mean just bright. It means working with light that complements the subject and mood of your image!

The takeaway here is balance. Shallow depth of field can be the star of the show, but it’s not the only thing that matters. If you focus solely on achieving that dreamy blur, you risk ignoring other photographic elements. And that usually leads to photos that lack emotional and visual depth.

3. Shoot into the light for the best backgrounds

Late afternoon offers the perfect opportunity to combine backlighting with shallow depth of field for some truly eye-catching photos:

Note that the technique isn’t reserved for any particular subject. It works wonders on flowers, leaves, and even portraits.

Start by positioning yourself so the sun is behind your subject, and see if you can adjust your angle until the low sun is poking through elements in the background, like leaves and tree branches.

Once you’ve got your angle, it’s time to focus. With the sun backlighting your subject, your camera’s autofocus might struggle. Feel free to switch to MF to efficiently set the point of focus.

Finally, make sure to dial in a wide aperture and get reasonably close to your subject. If all goes well, the combination of backlight and shallow depth of field will create a magical effect. Your subject will stand out sharply against a background – one that’s not just blurred but also beautifully illuminated. The light will interact with the out-of-focus elements to generate extraordinary bokeh.

So why does this technique work best later in the day? It’s all about the angle of the light. When the sun is low, you get a warm, diffused glow rather than harsh midday beams, and the low sun will beam through areas behind – rather than above – your subject.

4. Try photographing cities at night

Taking your camera for a spin after dark offers a thrilling new playground for shallow depth of field. The city streets are full of glowing lamps and shimmering neon signs. These lights make for extraordinary background elements, and nighttime subjects can be highly interesting, too.

For instance, you might photograph pedestrians shrouded in the enigmatic glow of streetlights, or you might capture reflections in puddles on the sidewalk. Focus tightly on the subject, and you’ll find the neon signs and other street lights dissolve into magical orbs of light. This setting naturally lends itself to limited focus, enriching your composition and lending it an atmospheric, cinematic feel.

Of course, photographing at night does come with its challenges. Exposure can be tough, and because of the low light conditions, you may find that your lens wants to focus on the brightest elements, such as those glowing signs. But with some patience and/or switching over to manual focus, you’ll be able to control where your lens directs its attention!

Shallow depth of field: final words

So there you have it: From understanding the basics of shallow depth of field to tips on how to effectively incorporate the effect in your images, you’re now better equipped to venture out and try some shallow DoF photography yourself!

So head out with your camera. See if you can get some beautiful depth of field effects. Experiment with the methods I’ve suggested.

And have fun!

Now over to you:

Which of these methods is your favorite? Do you have any tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Shallow Depth of Field Photography: A Practical Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Looking to capture photos that portray the warmth, the spirit, and the festive cheer of Christmas? Christmas photography is a lot of fun, but there are a few simple techniques you can use to keep your photos looking crisp, bright, and beautiful!

In this article, I share 15 easy tips and ideas for breathtaking shots, including:

• The best Christmas photo settings
• How to choose the perfect subjects
• How to prepare for a Christmas photoshoot
• Much more!

So if you’re ready to capture some amazing images this holiday season, then let’s dive right in!

1. Get ready in advance

Preparing to capture the Christmas festivities is key to a successful shoot. You should get yourself ready by making sure that:

• You pack the camera (one year, I forgot mine in the rush to get the car ready to go)
• Your batteries are charged and you have either backups or a recharger
• You have extra memory cards (and all of the cards are empty and ready to go)

I also recommend thinking about a few location-related elements in advance. For instance, what will the lighting be like where you plan to celebrate Christmas? Will it be bright? Dim? Will you be outdoors? Inside? Will there be lots of window light? Will you need a flash? You can also check the weather; clouds and sun can make a big difference.

You might also consider enlisting a helper in advance – someone in the family who will help keep people focused and ready to go for photos when the time comes for group shots.

2. Carefully set your white balance

Here in Australia, we often celebrate Christmas outdoors, but many people around the world do it inside under artificial lighting.

If you’ll be working with artificial light, pay attention to the type of light you encounter and set your white balance accordingly. If you’re really serious, you can even set a custom white balance using a gray card!

(That said, if you set your camera to RAW and you don’t mind spending a bit of extra time at the computer, you can shoot away and set your white balance during post-processing.)

3. Set up a DIY photo booth

While most of us probably can’t afford to hire a photo booth for our Christmas parties, you can always set up a “portrait zone” of your own so you can take photos of guests.

I did this a few years ago; I set up a little place, and I asked everyone who came to the festivities to sit for me so that I could take a nice shot of them.

I photographed everyone as they came in. Then I left the camera (a point-and-shoot model) set up on a tripod so people could photograph themselves as the party continued. I made sure the camera was in a well-lit spot, and I even used a red velvet curtain-type background with a few Christmassy decorations around the edges. I also left a few Santa hats and tinsel for people to use as props.

In the end, the shots were great! People went back to my photo booth throughout the party, and the photos got crazier and crazier as time went on. Plus, everyone had a great time taking shots!

4. Capture the Christmas preparations

The actual Christmas meal or party is the best part of the day, but there are other photos worth taking, especially during those essential preparation stages. For instance, you can capture gorgeous shots of:

• Food being made
• Decorations being hung
• Gifts being wrapped
• Kids throwing tantrums as they’re dressed in Christmas outfits
• Tables being set

The shots before the main event actually starts are often great because they show everything at its best before everyone descends on the party zone.

5. Take some before and after shots

Here’s another quick Christmas photography idea:

Arrive early to the location of the festivities, set up in advance, and capture some shots just before people walk in the door.

And then, once the party is over, take shots once again. For the best results, make sure you take the shots from the same position. That way, you can compare them side by side and see the exact effects of the party!

6. Try a time-lapse Christmas series

I have a friend who set up his computer with a webcam in the corner of the room. The camera looked down on the Christmas table, and it was set to go off every five minutes over the course of the day. He ended up with one of the most wonderful series of shots that I’ve seen in a long time!

So why not try to do the same? You don’t need to use a webcam; any camera will do, including a smartphone. Just set it up in advance to shoot images at regular intervals, then come back at the end of the event and grab it. I bet you’ll love the images!

7. Photograph the Christmas lights

Good Christmas light shots look incredible – but photographing Christmas lights isn’t the easiest. A few quick recommendations:

• Use a wide aperture for a shallow depth-of-field effect
• Make sure that the lights are well exposed (even if it means letting the background fall into darkness)
• Experiment with different points of focus (try using your lens’s manual focus setting if you’re struggling)

8. Include a focal point in your photos

The problem with Christmas events is that there is so much color, lighting, and people that all the different subjects compete for attention. If you include too many elements, the viewer will be confused and the image just won’t work.

On the other hand, if you identify a single focal point and exclude any potential distractions, the final image will look far better! In my view, all good shots have a focal point that holds the attention of the viewer. So work hard to declutter your images. Figure out the item you want to emphasize, and then compose the entire shot with it in mind.

9. Take group photos at the beginning

Group photos are a Christmas photography classic! However, these shots are usually taken at the end of the day or late in the evening when everyone is at their worst.

Instead, for a fresher shot, take the group photos as soon as everyone arrives. Also, think beforehand about how you might pose everyone and where you might take the shot.

10. Shoot in Burst mode as needed

There are certain moments during a Christmas gathering that are filled with photographic opportunities. When people are opening gifts, for instance, you’re generally faced with an array of emotions and facial expressions (especially if kids are involved).

So instead of trying to time your shots just right, switch your camera to Burst mode (also known as continuous shooting mode) and take lots of images when the excitement begins. That way, you can capture everything: The anticipation of getting the wrapped gift, the fun of unwrapping, and the joy (or occasionally disappointment) of seeing what’s inside.

(Don’t forget to shoot the reactions of those who give the gift, as well.)

11. Fill the frame

It’s one of the most common Christmas photography mistakes: People photograph from across the room, so they end up portraying their subjects off in the distance with lots of space around them. The resulting images lack impact – but they could easily be so much better if the photographer just filled the frame!

So use your zoom or physically move yourself closer, then fill the frame with your subject. This is one of the simplest tips I can give, but it’s one that can have a seriously profound impact on your shots.

12. Diffuse or bounce your flash

If you live in a colder area, Christmas gatherings will be taking place indoors, and you’ll be tempted to use a flash to brighten up the dark interiors. However, if you do use a flash, you risk creating shots that are so bright that the subjects look like rabbits in a spotlight (with harsh shadows in the background).

Fortunately, you can get around this by using a flash diffuser or reflector. Another option – if you have an external flash – is to bounce it off the walls or the ceiling.

If you’re struggling to get good shots while using your flash, however, you can always put it away, adjust your lens’s aperture to its widest setting, and raise your camera’s ISO until you get a good exposure. You do risk adding unwanted noise to your images, but modern-day cameras produce minimal noise even at ISO 1600 and beyond.

13. Try going macro

Many lenses can focus fairly close, so why not try zooming on in and photographing the smaller items around your party?

Ornaments on the tree, table decorations, sweets in the bowl on the table, a nativity scene on the mantlepiece, holly above the doorway; sometimes it’s these small things that are the real money shots!

14. Watch your aperture

I often shoot in Aperture Priority mode during Christmas events, and I’m constantly changing the aperture depending on my subject.

For example, when taking shots of a Christmas decoration on the tree, I’ll select a large aperture (e.g., f/2.8) to throw the background out of focus and create a beautiful blur effect.

However, when I’m photographing everyone eating at the table, I’ll choose a small aperture (e.g., f/11) to keep everyone in focus.

And I’d encourage you to do the same! Don’t just set your lens aperture and forget about it; instead, spend time adjusting the aperture to suit the subject. (If you’re not sure what aperture to choose, just experiment! There’s nothing wrong with trying out a few different values to see what you get.)

15. Explore your neighborhood

If your neighborhood is anything like mine, then you have a near-unlimited number of photographic opportunities all around you! Christmas carolers, houses covered in Christmas decorations, shopping malls filled with festive cheer; it all makes for great photos.

So get out there with your camera and capture the fun. Christmas really is a wonderful time of year to spend time behind the camera!

Christmas photography tips: final words

Well, there you have it:

15 tips to improve your Christmas photos! So grab your camera, do a bit of preparation, and enjoy your Christmas gatherings!

Now over to you:

Which of these techniques do you plan to use first? Do you have any other tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 15 Christmas Photography Tips (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Are you ever frustrated to find images in your catalog that are low resolution, blurry, or noisy? You’re not alone. 

Photographers get stuck with low-quality images all the time, for a host of reasons. For instance, most photographers have at least a few folders filled with images captured using camera equipment during the early days of digital shooting; these files are often noisy (especially if they were taken in poor lighting conditions), and they’re simply too low quality to allow for large prints. 

And that’s not to mention images that have been cropped heavily for compositional purposes, or that were taken as still frames from video clips, or that were blurry or out of focus from the get-go. 

Once upon a time, if you found yourself frustrated by insufficient-quality files, there wasn’t much that could be done. But now, thanks to huge advancements in photo-processing technology, there’s a solution: image-quality enhancer software, which takes subpar files and – often with the help of AI – turns them into beautiful, high-resolution photos. 

But which enhancement software should you pick? In this article, I explain why Aiarty Image Enhancer is a fantastic option. I also walk you through its key features, and I offer a step-by-step tutorial for dramatically upscaling your files. By the time you’re done reading, you’ll understand what makes Aiarty special, and you’ll be ready to use it to enhance your photos!

Let’s dive right in.

Why we choose Aiarty

The Aiarty Image Enhancer is an AI-powered program that offers high-quality image enhancement in an affordable, easy-to-use package. 

Here are just a few of Aiarty’s many benefits: 

1. Versatility. You can use the software to improve low-quality JPEGs, restore flawed photographs, and even enhance AI-generated images.
2. Power. Aiarty can enhance images to 4K, 8K, and even 32K resolutions, which ensures stunning clarity and sharpness in the largest print products (even wall-sized posters!).
3. Depth and detail. Aiarty offers image-quality enhancement tools for denoising, deblurring, and upscaling, all of which produce realistic results with natural details. 
4. Comprehensiveness and ease of use. Aiarty Image Enhancer offers an all-in-one package for image-quality improvements. And it’s easy to use, even for a complete beginner, thanks to a one-click workflow for denoising, deblurring, upscaling, and more.

To see Aiarty in action, check out this official video: 

Bottom line: Aiarty Image Enhancer combines power, comprehensiveness, and versatility into an intuitive program. Plus, as I discuss in the next section, the program is surprisingly affordable: 

Aiarty’s price (and a limited-time offer!)

Normally, Aiarty’s software costs 85 USD for an annual license, though photographers also have the option to purchase a lifetime license for 155 USD. Compared to the competition – which often requires users to purchase monthly subscription packages – Aiarty is a very cost-effective image enhancer. 

But what makes the program even more appealing is the current sale, which gives you the opportunity to grab an annual Aiarty Image Enhancer license for just 75 USD, or get a lifetime license for just 99 USD. 

But that’s not all – this holiday season, Aiarty is offering a Christmas Mega Sale, where you can get the Aiarty AI Toolbox Bundle with lifetime licenses. This all-in-one bundle is perfect for upscaling and enhancing images and videos, background removal, media conversion, downloading, and more (and it’s currently over 62% off the standard price!). 

Just bear in mind that this offer is only good for a limited time, so to take advantage of the huge discount, make sure you act fast!

How to enhance your images with Aiarty

Aiarty Image Enhancer includes tools for a wide array of image improvements. In this section, I share a step-by-step tutorial so you can see just how easy it is to upscale a photo to 8K or more (even while improving sharpness and removing image noise).

When you first open the Aiarty Image Enhancer, you’ll see a modern-looking interface, with the preview screen in the center and the image-enhancement tools on the right-hand side:

To get started, you can simply drag and drop an image file onto the main window, or you can click the arrow button at the center of the screen and select the file you want to upscale. (You also have the option to import multiple files, which comes in handy when you need to enhance a batch of photos.)

Your selected image will appear in the preview window, with the option to toggle between two different before-and-after views: 

Once Aiarty has loaded the AI models and analyzed your file, it’s time to choose your upscaling settings. Under the More Details AI tab, you’ll need to choose an AI model as well as an upscaling option: 

Picking an upscaling option is easy: Just choose the option that corresponds to your desired file resolution. If you want to upscale your file to 8K, for instance, then simply select the 8K setting.

That said, the AI model you choose can constrain your upscaling options, so you must pick carefully. 

How do you select an AI model? Well, Aiarty currently offers three: 

1. More-Detail GAN v2, which generates additional detail, adds clarity and sharpness, and applies deblurring and denoising. This model offers upscaling up to 32K. 

Best for: Skin, hair, pores, and other intricate patterns.

2. Smooth Diff v2, which restores missing detail and handles file flaws, including noise and blur. This model also offers upscaling up to 32K.

Best for: 2D graphics, some faces, glass surfaces, smooth textures, anime, and line art.

3. Real-photo v3, which only offers up to 2X upscaling but restores files with beautiful, photo-realistic detail. 

Best for: Family portraits, product shots, and scenic landscapes.

Each model has its strengths and weaknesses, and I encourage you to try them all. However, if you’re looking for a quick rundown of the models’ practical uses, the More-Detail GAN v2 is best for major image upscaling (especially where fine detail is required), while the Real-Photo v3 is ideal for removing flaws (such as noise or blur) without significant upscaling. The Smooth Diff v3 can also restore flawed image files, but it generally performs better on non-photo-realistic images (i.e., drawings and graphics). 

For the purposes of my 8K upscale example, I’m going to use the More-Detail GAN v2, since my image – a wildlife portrait – includes lots of detail that requires enhancing. 

(Note: If you decide to switch the AI model after importing an image, it’s a good idea to press the Refresh button on the preview screen so you can see an accurate preview of your enhanced result!)

At this point, you can simply choose your export settings (including file format, quality level, and output path), then press the Run button: 

And Aiarty will get to work generating your enhanced image!

I do want to offer a couple more tips, however. 

First, if you’re looking for top-notch image quality, I encourage you to choose the 2-Pass Processing option, which tells the software to run the image-enhancement model a second time.

Second, if you’re enhancing an AI-generated image, and you want the program to take into account the prompt you initially used to generate that image, be sure to check the Keep the Prompt box in the Image Prompt tab.

Key Aiarty Image Enhancer features

At this point, you should be relatively familiar with the power of Aiarty’s software. However, I’d like to offer a final rundown of the main features so you can understand the overall value of the program. 

First, the program’s AI-powered denoising technology allows photographers to remove unsightly noise from images that were captured in low-light conditions (e.g., indoors, at night) or using high ISOs. Unlike traditional denoising algorithms, Aiarty’s AI models do an excellent job of removing noise while preserving image details (and even while upscaling!).  

Second, Aiarty’s deblur technology can take even the softest, out-of-focus image and generate a sharp, realistic result. It’s a great way to handle blur due to subject motion, but it also excels at correcting for cheap optics and poor focusing in the field. Plus, deblurring allows photographers to enhance compressed images and even AI-generated images!

Similarly, the More-Detail GAN v2 model does a stellar job of preserving existing elements while also creating beautifully detailed skin, texture, hair, and more. 

And the More-Detail GAN v2 model, as well as the Smooth Diff v2 model, are capable of magnificent upscaling – not just to 4K and 8K resolutions, but all the way up to 32K, allowing you to produce gorgeous image files perfect for gallery display and even for wall-sized prints.

Of course, I would be remiss not to mention the flexibility and power offered by Aiarty’s three separate AI models. You can easily switch between the three options to tailor the output to your desired result, and you can even try 2-pass processing for even more outstanding files. 

Final words

At the end of the day, Aiarty offers a cutting-edge product that can help pretty much any photographer. The combination of three AI models and flexible upscaling options ensure that you have a powerful solution to address a wide array of image-quality issues, while the one-click approach and intuitive interface make the program perfect for beginners to professionals. 

So if you’re looking to enhance your photos but you’re not sure where to turn, consider Aiarty Image Enhancer! And remember that for a few more days, you can purchase an annual or lifetime license at a huge discount – so head over to the Aiarty website and download your copy today!

(You can also check out the Aiarty store for some great holiday packages!)

Digiarty Software is a paid partner of dPS.

The post An AI Image-Quality Enhancer Like No Other: Improve Your Photo’s Quality With Aiarty Image Enhancer appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Sunset photography is fun, rewarding, and often breathtakingly beautiful – but creating stunning sunset shots can be tough, especially for beginners. The bright skies and dark foregrounds lead to exposure problems, while the limited lighting can encourage blur due to camera shake.

That’s where this article comes in handy! Below, I share 15 easy-to-follow tips that’ll instantly improve your sunset images, including:

• How to capture beautiful tones consistently
• How to create balanced, pro-level compositions
• The best type of weather for sunset photos
• A simple trick to make your shots stand out
• Much more!

So if you’re ready to become a sunset photography master, then let’s dive right in.

1. For the best shots, plan ahead

While you can sometimes capture beautiful sunset shots without any forethought, the best shots usually come from real planning.

So scope out places that might be good for sunsets the day or two before your shoot. Look for interesting locations – locations where you can photograph the sun all the way down to the horizon line, and where there will be opportunities for shots that include foreground elements and silhouettes.

The sunset window is often rather short, which is why you want to think about these elements before the sunset begins. Otherwise, you might miss the best shots.

Find out when the sun will set, then arrive at least half an hour beforehand. While you can capture incredible shots of the sun sinking below the horizon, you’ll often encounter plenty of magic in the lead-up to the sunset.

And keep an eye on the weather. There are a variety of different types of sunsets that produce a range of different types of lights and patterns in the sky. Don’t just head out on clear days, because while these can produce some wonderful colors, it’s usually the days with (partial) clouds when the real action happens.

(Also, dust and smoke in the air can produce amazing results, too.)

Consider the equipment you might need. Take a tripod, lenses with a range of focal lengths, and extra batteries. That way, when the sky turns beautiful, you’ll be ready!

2. Use the right camera

Technically speaking, you can capture amazing sunset images using any type of camera, from the cheapest smartphone model to the most expensive medium-format mirrorless unit. But certain cameras do offer advantages, so if you’re serious about sunset (or sunrise) photography, it may make sense to purchase a new model.

For instance, full-frame cameras – especially the latest full-frame mirrorless cameras – offer breathtaking dynamic range. This allows you to capture dark shadows and bright highlights in a single frame, which comes in handy if you prefer to photograph the sunset in a single shot (as opposed to using a bracketing or HDR approach). These full-frame cameras also offer impressive low-light performance, and while this isn’t a huge deal if you plan to shoot in decent light and use a tripod, it can make a big difference if you choose to shoot handheld or at night.

It’s also a good idea to grab a camera with a decent number of megapixels. Most modern mirrorless cameras offer at least 20 MP, but it pays to purchase a 30 MP, 40 MP, or even 60 MP model, especially if you want to create large prints from your photos.

The specific camera you buy will depend on your interests, your budget, and your brand of choice, but a few great options are the Sony a7R IV, the Canon EOS R5, and the Nikon Z7 II. (Note that the best sunset photography cameras overlap almost perfectly with the best landscape photography cameras, so you can always check out our landscape camera recommendations!)

3. Shoot at a variety of focal lengths

Most sunsets are photographed with wide-angle lenses, and these focal lengths can make for beautiful images. A lens in the 10-30mm range will give you sweeping shots of your sunset scene.

However, if you want the sun itself to be a main feature of the shot, you’ll need to zoom on in. The sun is just half a degree across, so when you shoot with a wide-angle lens, the sun will be tiny in the frame. If you want to highlight the sun, you’ll need to zoom in with a 200mm lens or longer. (This, in turn, will increase your need for a tripod, which I discuss below.)

Also, be hyper-aware of eye-safety concerns because looking at the sun is always dangerous. And it’s even more dangerous when you look at it through a telephoto lens. So if you do include the sun in your composition, never look through your camera’s optical viewfinder. Instead, use Live View to check your composition and exposure on the rear LCD.

(If you use a mirrorless camera, this won’t be an issue. You can safely look at the sun through an electronic viewfinder.)

4. Use the rule of thirds to improve your sunset photography compositions

The rule of thirds states that you should position key elements of your scene a third of the way into the frame. So instead of putting the horizon in the center of the landscape composition, put it toward the top or the bottom, like this:

Do you see how the horizon is a third of the way up from the bottom? That’s what the rule of thirds suggests.

And it’s not just about horizons. You can also use the rule of thirds to position the sun, foreground elements, background elements, you name it.

Of course, the rule of thirds isn’t a requirement. And you can break the rule of thirds for stunning results in certain situations. But in general, the rule of thirds is a great starting point – so unless you have a good reason to do otherwise, I highly recommend you follow it!

5. Experiment with different exposures (to achieve a magical result)

When doing sunset photography, you should always shoot with a semi-automatic or Manual mode. Don’t let your camera dictate your settings for you (in other words: get off Auto mode immediately!). So before starting a sunset shoot, switch your camera over to Aperture Priority mode, Shutter Priority mode, or Manual mode.

And don’t just take one shot using one exposure. Instead, take a variety of shots at different exposures.

While you can try a “standard” exposure based on your camera’s recommendation, don’t be afraid to underexpose by raising your shutter speed or narrowing your aperture. And don’t be afraid to overexpose by doing the opposite.

The great thing about sunsets is that there is no one “right” exposure. You can get stunning results with underexposure and overexposure; the key is to experiment.

(Personally, I tend to start with a relatively quick shutter speed, then slowly work down to slower shutter speeds for brighter, more luminous shots.)

6. Bracket often

In the previous tip, I talked about experimenting with different exposures. But if you want to take a more formal exposure approach, I’d recommend using a bracketing technique.

Here’s how it works:

First, take a photo using your camera’s suggested settings.

Then adjust the settings (either manually or via exposure compensation) to slightly underexpose the photo. Take a shot. And then adjust the settings to slightly overexpose the photo. In other words, if your camera says to shoot at f/8, you would take your first shot at f/8, as recommended. But your second shot would be at f/5.6, and your third shot would be at f/11. That way, you’d end up with a “standard” shot, a darker shot, and a brighter shot, all of which will give you different colors and effects.

It’s a good way to guide your experimentation, and it’s also a good way to create “insurance” photos – so that, if you overexpose the standard shot on accident, you still have a darker file on your memory card. Make sense?

7. Auto Exposure Lock is your friend

Bracketing can be a lot of fun, but it also takes time – and if you only have time for a shot or two, it’s not the most precise way to create a well-exposed image. That’s where Auto Exposure Lock (AEL) comes in handy.

Using AEL is simple. First, you point your camera at the area of the scene you want perfectly exposed, such as a beautiful foreground feature. Then lock the exposure. Finally, reframe the picture (while maintaining the exposure lock).

Basically, it lets you determine the exposure without interference from the ultra-bright sunset, which can wreak havoc on a camera’s meter.

Also note that you can use Auto Exposure Lock to create beautiful silhouettes; just point your camera at the brightest part of the sky, lock the exposure, and then reframe with a foreground subject. The result will look like this:

8. Experiment with different angles

Once you’ve got started with sunset photography, you may be tempted to constantly shoot from the same chest- or eye-level vantage point. After all, if it isn’t broken, there’s no reason to fix it, right?

On the one hand, this standard vantage point will get you great shots. And there’s nothing wrong with applying a certain compositional tactic across many photoshoots.

But eventually, you may want to capture images that stand out from the pack – and a great way to do this is by varying your angle.

Instead of always placing your camera on your fully extended tripod and pointing it at the horizon, try to mix it up. For instance, you can:

• Get down low to emphasize the foreground
• Find a high vantage point to produce unique overhead shots
• Shoot from an oblique angle for a more energized composition
• Shoot through a foreground subject to give a feeling of peeking out at the sunset

Of course, don’t give up the more conventional approach completely, but do try these other perspectives and see what you think!

9. Shoot in RAW whenever possible

Many photographers, especially when they’re starting out, are inclined to capture JPEG images, which are small, highly shareable, and require no special editing.

But while JPEGs are convenient, they come at a cost: When your camera creates a JPEG, it compresses the image data, which ultimately results in less information in the file. RAW files, on the other hand, contain all the image data from the moment of capture, which offers several major advantages, including:

• RAW files have more color information, so it’s easier to push colors in different directions without introducing unpleasant banding effects
• RAW files have more tonal information, so you can recover detail in the shadows and the highlights that is completely lost in JPEG files

In sunset photography, when you’re often working with lots of gorgeous colors and a huge dynamic range, the ability to make these tweaks and recover lost information is invaluable. And while RAW files don’t look as stunning as JPEGs right off the bat, you only need a little bit of editing knowledge to make them look incredible!

Note that you will need some form of RAW processing software to make your files shareable, but there are plenty of amazing programs out there, including paid options like Lightroom Classic and Photoshop, as well as free programs like RawTherapee.

10. For the best colors, get off Auto White Balance

Your white balance setting adjusts the temperature of the colors in your scene. So depending on the white balance, you’ll end up with a cooler (bluer) photo or a warmer (redder) photo.

When the white balance is set to Auto, your camera will automatically deal with the color temperature. And while this can sometimes work, it often gives subpar results – where you lose the warm golden tones of your sunset.

Therefore, instead of using Auto White Balance, switch your camera to the Cloudy or Shade presets, which will warm things up a little. Alternatively, if you’re shooting a sunset and you do want a cooler, moody shot, you can experiment with other white balance settings, such as Incandescent.

One more thing:

If you shoot in RAW, it’s true that you can always tweak the white balance during post-processing. However, this is often pretty inconvenient; after all, how much time do you want to spend adjusting the white balance in front of your computer? That’s why it’s worth getting the white balance right in-camera.

11. Always bring a tripod for the sharpest results

If you’re shooting at longer shutter speeds, such as 1/60s and beyond, then a tripod makes a huge difference. It’ll keep your camera stable – so that your files remain tack sharp.

When you’re out doing sunset photography, you don’t need to start the shoot with a tripod, because the minutes leading up to a sunset bring plenty of light.

But as the sun sinks on the horizon, a tripod will become more and more necessary. (And by the time the sun is gone, a tripod will be absolutely essential.)

Note that you might want to use a tripod for your whole photoshoot, especially if you plan to capture long exposures that feature moving water, like this one:

What if you don’t have a tripod or you forget to bring one? In such cases, I recommend you stabilize your camera against an object. You can put it on the hood of a car, or you can just set it on the ground; whatever allows you to minimize movement as much as possible.

12. Use a remote release or a two-second timer

If you’re using a tripod to capture your sunset images, then you’ve already removed one major source of blur: shake due to handholding.

However, it’s also important to address another source of blur: the vibrations created when you press the shutter button. You may not realize it, but every time you press that shutter button, you’re creating a slight amount of vibration – and if your shutter speed is slow enough, that vibration will blur the image.

Fortunately, there are two easy methods to avoid this problem:

• Use a remote release, which allows you to trigger the shutter without actually touching the shutter button
• Use your camera’s two-second self-timer, which gives the camera vibrations a few seconds to die down before the shutter actually fires

A remote release tends to be a bit more convenient, plus it helps with timing if you’re photographing waves – but a two-second self-timer is built right into your camera, so it’s the easier and cheaper route.

13. Don’t be afraid to focus manually

We all love autofocus – but sometimes, when shooting in extreme lighting conditions, autofocus just won’t get the job done. Your lens will hunt all around, and the shot will end up out of focus.

That’s where manual focus comes in handy.

Now, not all lenses support manual focus. Some only allow for autofocusing, in which case you’re out of luck.

But many lenses do let you focus manually (and you can generally activate manual focus by pushing the AF/MF switch on the lens barrel to MF).

So when your lens starts to hunt, don’t fret; just swap over to manual focus and keep shooting!

14. Shoot more than just the sunset

Here’s one of the many wonderful things about sunsets:

They don’t just create wonderful colors in the sky; they also cast a beautiful golden light that is great for other types of photography!

So as the sunset progresses, keep an eye on other photographic opportunities around you. For instance, you can capture portrait, landscape, or macro shots. In the light of the setting sun, it’ll all turn out amazing!

15. Keep shooting (even after the sun is gone)

A sunset constantly changes over time – which means that every additional minute is an opportunity for a different shot.

So don’t take a few shots and call it an evening. Instead, stick around and photograph the sun as it goes down. You can continue to capture the same composition, or you can test out different compositions; the key is to keep your camera out and your finger on the shutter button.

Also make sure to capture different exposures (bracket!) and consider working with different focal lengths, as I’ve discussed above.

And finally:

Don’t pack up once the sun is gone. The period after the sun has disappeared – called the blue hour – can be great for photography, too, thanks to its beautiful colors and ethereal light. So if you still have the energy, keep finding compositions until the colors have vanished completely from the horizon.

Sunset photography tips: conclusion

Now that you know these tips, you’re well on your way to capturing some stunning sunset photography of your own.

So the next time the sun starts to get low in the sky…

…grab your camera and head outside!

Amazing images await.

Now over to you:

Which of these sunset photography tips is your favorite? Are you going to use any of them the next time you photograph a sunset? Share your thoughts (and sunset photos) in the comments below!

The post 15 Sunset Photography Tips for Beautiful Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

What is exposure in photography? And how can you adjust your exposure settings to produce beautiful, detailed photos?

In this article, I’ll give you an exposure photography crash course. I’ll start with all the exposure basics, including fundamental terms like aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Then I’ll share a few practical examples, which you can use to guide yourself when photographing landscapes, portraits, and more.

By the time you’ve finished, you’ll know how to carefully adjust your camera for perfect exposure results – and you’ll be well on your way to capturing stunning shots.

Let’s jump right in.

What is exposure in photography?

Exposure refers to the overall brightness of an image, which is determined by the amount of light that hits the camera sensor.

So by letting in lots of light, you’ll end up with a too-bright exposure (also known as overexposure), like this:

And by letting in very little light, you’ll end up with a too-dark exposure (also known as underexposure), like this:

But by adjusting your camera settings carefully – so you let in a perfect amount of light – you’ll end up with a shot that has plenty of details in the shadows (darks), the highlights (brights), and the midtones, like this:

Proper exposure is a fundamental goal in photography. Images that are poorly exposed tend to look bad and unnatural, plus they lose critical detail in the darker and lighter areas. That’s why, in order to take beautiful images, you must master exposure. Make sense?

The three elements of camera exposure

Exposure might seem complicated, but when you get down to it, it’s actually pretty simple. It consists of three camera settings that alter photo brightness; your goal, as the photographer, is to adjust the three settings so they are balanced.

In brief, these three exposure settings are:

1. Aperture: the size of the opening in the camera lens
2. Shutter speed: the length of time the shutter is open
3. ISO: the amplification, sometimes referred to as sensitivity, applied to the captured image

It is at the intersection of these three settings that an image’s exposure is determined. By adjusting any one element, you can brighten or darken the overall image, so you need to be aware of all three settings at all times.

(By the way, if you’ve ever heard the term exposure triangle, that’s what this is: three triangle corners that together determine the image exposure.)

Now let’s take a look at each element in turn, starting with:

Aperture

Every camera lens has an aperture, which is a hole – or diaphragm – in the lens barrel that widens and narrows depending on your camera settings.

The wider the aperture, the more light that goes through the lens and impacts the camera sensor, and the brighter the image.

Now, photographers refer to aperture sizes using f-stops, like this: f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, etc. A low f-number, such as f/2.8, gives a wide aperture, while a high f-number, such as f/16, gives a narrow aperture.

So when you’re taking a photo of a rose – like the example shot in the previous section – an f/2.8 aperture setting will create a brighter result (all else being equal). And an f/16 aperture setting will create a darker result (again, all else being equal).

Most cameras allow you to adjust the aperture via a dial on the camera top or rear, while others let you adjust the aperture directly on the lens. (If you’re not sure how to adjust the aperture on your camera model, check the manual.)

One more thing:

In addition to adjusting the exposure of your image, the aperture has another effect: It influences the amount of your photo that’s in focus, also known as the depth of field. Depth of field is completely independent of exposure, so I won’t go into the details now – but it’s important to know that, when you widen or narrow the aperture, you’re also changing the blurriness of your shot.

Shutter speed

Your camera has a shutter that blocks the sensor from receiving light. The second you hit the shutter button, however, the shutter opens, light hits the sensor, and a picture is created. Then the shutter covers the sensor back up.

The length of time from when the shutter opens to when the shutter closes is the shutter speed.

As you can probably guess, the longer the shutter speed, the more light that hits the sensor, and the brighter the image. An easy way to overexpose a photo is to set a lengthy shutter speed in bright light; you’ll quickly over-brighten (blow out) image highlights and ruin the shot.

Like aperture, you can adjust the shutter speed using a camera dial. Standard shutter speeds are fractions of a second, where 1/1000s to 1/8000s is considered fast, 1/250s to 1/1000s is considered average, and 1s to 1/250s is considered slow. (Once you go past 1s, you’ll be using a technique known as long exposure, and this isn’t advisable unless you have a sturdy tripod.)

Note that shutter speed doesn’t just affect image exposure; it also affects image sharpness, where a too-slow shutter speed will lead to blur, either due to camera shake or moving subjects. That’s why photographers use a tripod once the shutter speed drops below 1/100s or so (though the specifics depend on the lens, the camera, the steadiness of your hands, the subject, and even the weather).

ISO

An easy way to think of ISO is as the camera’s sensitivity to light. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the sensor becomes, and the brighter the resulting shot.

Technically, this “sensitivity to light” explanation isn’t quite right – ISO is really a type of exposure amplification that’s added after the image is taken – but the details won’t affect your photos, and so I’d like to talk in terms of light sensitivity for now.

Most cameras have a base ISO of around 100. But as you boost the ISO to 200, 400, 800, even 25600, the exposure will get brighter and brighter.

Unfortunately, raising the ISO, while useful for increasing the exposure in certain situations, has an unpleasant side effect: it adds noise to your photos, which looks like little dots of light and color. This reduces image sharpness and quality, so it’s generally best to leave the ISO on its base value unless you absolutely need extra brightness.

If you do need to boost the ISO, however, look for an ISO button on your camera’s top display or in the camera menu.

Photo exposure: bringing it all together

Now that you’re familiar with the three elements of exposure, you can see how each camera setting cannot be considered in isolation. Instead, you must consider the aperture, the shutter speed, and the ISO when exposing your photos – because an adjustment of one setting will influence the overall exposure value and change the final result.

It’s also important to recognize that the proper exposure settings will vary from situation to situation. If the light is limited – for instance, if you’re shooting at night – you’ll need to widen the aperture, lower the shutter speed, and boost the ISO. Otherwise, your shot will end up pitch black. And if the light is very bright – for instance, if you’re shooting at noon on a sunny day – you’ll need to narrow the aperture, raise the shutter speed, and keep the ISO as low as possible.

Finally, remember that each exposure variable affects an additional aspect of your photos. Aperture influences the depth of field, shutter speed influences sharpness, and ISO influences noisiness. So when adjusting your exposure settings, you must think about exposure and these additional image quality and artistic considerations.

Determining the proper exposure in the field

I’ve explained how exposure theory works, but how do you set the exposure in practice? Are you supposed to guess at the settings until you get an image that you like?

Fortunately, thanks to modern camera technology, determining the right exposure value is pretty simple. Cameras are equipped with meters, which measure the light and indicate its brightness level. Your camera viewfinder displays an exposure bar, and as you adjust your three exposure settings, you’ll see the bar move toward the plus side (indicating overexposure) or the minus side (indicating underexposure). The goal, of course, is to get the bar to rest directly in the center of the bar, which indicates a perfect exposure.

In fact, modern camera technology makes things even easier than what I’ve just described. While you can set the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO individually – this is called Manual mode – you also have the option to shoot in Aperture Priority mode, where you set the aperture and ISO and your camera sets the shutter speed for a perfect exposure. Or you can shoot in Shutter Priority mode, where you set the shutter speed and ISO and your camera sets the aperture for a perfect exposure.

Finally, you have the option to shoot in Auto mode, where your camera selects the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO on its own.

(To choose a camera mode, simply adjust the Mode dial, generally found on the top of the camera.)

At this point, you’re probably wondering:

If cameras are so capable of determining exposure, how come it’s such an important concept to understand? Why can’t I just set my camera to Auto mode and forget everything I just learned?

For two reasons:

1. Sometimes, your camera’s meter gets it wrong. And in those cases, it’s important to know why the exposure is off and how you can fix it.
2. The exposure variables affect other aspects of your image, such as sharpness and depth of field. You need to know how adjusting each variable affects both exposure and image quality. Otherwise, you might end up with a photo that’s well exposed but that is annoyingly blurry, terribly noisy, etc.

That’s why I recommend you always set your camera to Aperture Priority mode, Shutter Priority mode, or Manual mode. These three modes guide you as you set the exposure, and they also give you the freedom to make adjustments when your camera gets it wrong.

Speaking of which:

Exposure mishaps: why your camera gets it wrong

Camera meters do a great job of determining the correct exposure value when faced with a neutral scene. They’ll make sure the scene balances out to a nice set of midtones.

However, some scenes aren’t meant to be neutral. Think about these situations:

• A swan against a white sky
• A snow-covered landscape
• A white picket fence against a white house
• A black cat at night
• A dark car against dark pavement

In each of the above, your camera meter will try to expose the scene so you create midtones. It’ll darken the whites and brighten the blacks until it all becomes gray. And that’s not what you want.

Instead, you want properly white whites and properly black blacks. You want your dark car to look dark and your snowy hills to look bright.

So when you’re photographing scenes that are brighter than middle gray, you should deliberately overexpose the shot by widening the aperture, lengthening the shutter speed, or raising the ISO. If you’re shooting in Aperture or Shutter Priority mode, you’ll need to add something called positive exposure compensation, which basically just tells your camera to boost the exposure.

And when you’re photographing scenes that are darker than middle gray, you should deliberately underexpose by narrowing the aperture, increasing the shutter speed, etc. Alternatively, you might dial in negative exposure compensation to let your camera know that it should underexpose.

Usually, exposure correction involves adjusting by a few stops at the most (e.g., widening the aperture from f/8 to f/4), but I highly recommend you take several shots to be safe, especially when starting out.

How to expose for landscapes and portraits

In this section, I’ll give you a few pieces of practical exposure advice; that way, when you encounter specific situations in the field, you know what to do!

How to expose for an outdoor portrait

Say you’re photographing a person on a lawn. How do you select the right exposure variables?

First, I’d recommend setting your camera to either Manual mode or Aperture Priority mode. I’d suggest selecting a wide aperture, such as f/1.8 or f/2.8, so you can create an artfully blurred background (and to enhance the blur, move your subject away from any background elements).

Dial in a low ISO, such as 100, to prevent noise.

Then pick a shutter speed that will give you a balanced exposure. (If you’re shooting in Aperture Priority mode, your camera will do this for you!)

Once you’ve dialed in these settings, check your shutter speed. Is it fast enough to prevent blur? If you’re shooting on a bright day, the answer is undoubtedly yes, in which case you’re good to go.

However, if you’re shooting late in the evening or at night, your shutter speed might be too low (e.g., 1/30s). In that case, you’ll need to raise your shutter speed, then either widen your aperture farther or boost your ISO to compensate.

Take a test shot, adjust the variables as needed for a good exposure, and then start snapping away.

How to expose for a landscape

To create a detailed landscape shot, I’d recommend Manual mode, though Aperture Priority can also work well.

Set a narrow aperture, with the goal of keeping the entire scene in focus. You might try f/8 as a starting point, but depending on your results, you may need to push the aperture to f/11 or even f/16.

Set your ISO at its base level – probably 100 – so you can capture the best possible image quality. Then dial in your shutter speed based purely on exposure considerations. If the shutter speed is below 1/100s or so, you’ll probably want to use a tripod and a remote shutter release.

Finally, capture a test shot. Zoom in to check the depth of field, and make sure your exposure is bang on. If you’re shooting a sunrise or sunset, consider taking several shots – one exposing for the foreground and one exposing for the sky.

Exposure in photography: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about exposure. You know how it works, how to adjust your camera settings for consistently great results, and even how to expose in a few practical scenarios.

All that’s left to do is get out and practice. Have fun working with the different exposure variables and experiment as much as possible!

The post Exposure in Photography: Everything You Need to Know appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Capturing sharp photos is a fundamental goal for any photographer, from the enthusiastic beginner to the seasoned pro; after all, sharp images not only convey professionalism but also bring your subjects to life by highlighting details that might otherwise go unnoticed.

Achieving this clarity, however, isn’t always straightforward. If you’re reading this article, you’re probably struggling with some sharpness issues of your own – and fortunately, I can help.

You see, while achieving clean, crisp, sharp photos may seem difficult, it’s actually easier than you might think. Blurry images are caused by a few common technical factors, and if you know how to counteract them, you’ll be able to capture consistently sharp shots.

And that’s what I’ll share in this article today: my best tips, techniques, and secrets so you can reduce image softness and capture the kind of crisp, sharp photos that’ll impress even a professional. So whether you’re a beginner struggling to deal with blur, or an experienced photographer looking for that extra bit of crispness, read on!

1. Hold your camera correctly

What’s the number one most common cause of image blur?

Camera shake.

When you press the shutter button, if your camera is moving even imperceptibly, you may end up with a blurry photo. This is especially true when shooting with telephoto lenses, at high magnifications, or in low light.

That’s why, if you’re looking to take sharper photos, you should brush up on your handholding technique. Grip your camera in one hand and cup a second hand under the lens. Keep the camera close to your body, keep your elbows tight, and – when possible – support yourself with a wall, a tree, or another solid object.

Also, make sure to press the shutter button gently; don’t punch at it.

Proper handholding technique will provide a major increase in sharpness, but it’s not foolproof. If you shoot in low light, you may struggle to get sharp handheld shots, which is where my next tip comes in handy:

2. Use a tripod

If sharp photos are your goal, then using a tripod is the absolute best thing you can do for yourself.

You’ll need to buy a sturdy tripod, though; a cheap, plasticky model will offer limited gains (and may even increase the blur, depending on other factors).

If you’re shooting long exposures at night, then a tripod is essential. I’d also recommend taking a tripod for most landscape photography, as well as situations where you’re using a long lens.

Before grabbing your tripod, though, ask yourself: Is it really practical to bring this with me? If your tripod is relatively heavy and you’re going on a long hike or traveling by plane, you may be better off without it. (Pro tip: If you like to do photography while traveling, invest in a good travel tripod. They’re sturdy and compact!)

3. Use a remote release

While a tripod is a go-to solution for eliminating camera shake, there’s another factor to consider: the vibration caused by pressing the shutter button. This is where a remote release becomes invaluable; it lets you trigger your camera’s shutter without physically touching the camera, ensuring that no inadvertent movement disrupts your shot.

Remote releases sync with your camera and can be either wired or wireless. They are typically affordable and easy to use, making them a great addition to your photography kit. If you’re looking to save money, or if you don’t have a remote release on hand when you set off for a photoshoot, your camera’s self-timer function is an effective alternative. With the self-timer, you can press the shutter button and then step away, allowing any vibrations to settle before the camera takes the photo.

This technique is particularly useful for long-exposure photography, macro photography, or any situation where even the slightest camera movement could compromise the sharpness of your image.

4. Use mirror lock-up

For those using DSLR cameras, mirror slap is a term you might be familiar with. It refers to the vibrations caused by the camera’s mirror flipping up when the shutter button is pressed. While this isn’t an issue with mirrorless cameras, DSLR users need to be mindful, especially when shooting with slower shutter speeds; the mirror slap can cause noticeable blur in your photos.

Fortunately, there’s an easy solution: use the mirror lock-up feature. This function allows you to flip the mirror up well before taking the shot, thereby eliminating any mirror slap at the moment of exposure. Using mirror lock-up is particularly crucial when capturing long-exposure images, where even the slightest movement can affect image sharpness. On the other hand, if you’re using a fast shutter speed, taking precautions against mirror slap isn’t necessary.

An alternative here is to use your camera’s Live View mode. When Live View is activated, the mirror is flipped up in advance in order to let you see the shot through the LCD screen.

5. Use your camera’s electronic shutter

Shutter shock is another often-overlooked factor that can impact the sharpness of your photos, especially when using slower shutter speeds. It occurs due to the internal movement of your camera’s mechanical shutter, which can introduce vibrations and result in a slight blur in your images. Even if you’ve done everything else perfectly, shutter shock can still compromise the sharpness you’re striving for.

Fortunately, there’s a simple solution: use your camera’s electronic shutter. Most modern mirrorless cameras come equipped with this feature. For DSLR users, though a fully electronic shutter won’t be available, you’ll often find an Electronic Front-Curtain Shutter (EFCS) option in your camera settings. EFCS starts the exposure electronically, which prevents the vibrations caused by the mechanical shutter movement.

By the way, a benefit of using EFCS over the electronic shutter is the avoidance of rolling shutter distortion. This is particularly useful when photographing fast-moving subjects. Rolling shutter distortion can create a jello-like effect in your images, where straight lines appear curved or skewed due to the rapid movement. By starting the exposure electronically but finishing it mechanically – which is the exact process used by the EFCS setting – you prevent this issue, resulting in more natural-looking photos.

6. Select a fast shutter speed

Here’s another major culprit of blurry photos:

A too-slow shutter speed.

You see, the shutter speed refers to the length of time the camera sensor is exposed to the light. And if the shutter speed is too long, elements of your image will have time to move (and your setup will have time to shake, as well).

If you’re using a tripod and your subject is stationary (e.g., a desert landscape), you generally don’t need to worry about using a fast shutter speed. But if you’re handholding your camera or you’re hoping to freeze fast action, then a fast shutter speed is essential.

How do you pick the right shutter speed for tack-sharp images? If your subject is stationary, use the reciprocal “rule” for handholding:

Your shutter speed should be faster than the lens’s focal length.

So if your lens is 50mm, then shoot at 1/50s or above. If your lens is 100mm, then shoot at 1/100s and above. If your lens is 200mm, then shoot at 1/200s and above. Make sense?

The rule isn’t perfect, and I recommend choosing your shutter speed conservatively (a too-fast shutter speed is rarely harmful). In particular, you’ll need to err on the side of caution when using a long lens, shooting at high magnifications, or shooting with an unstable foundation (e.g., you’re standing on a chair).

Keep in mind that you cannot choose your shutter speed in isolation. If you increase the shutter speed, your images will turn out darker – unless you increase the ISO or widen the aperture to balance out the exposure.

7. Choose a narrow aperture

Aperture impacts the depth of field (the window of focus) in your images. And another reason for a blurry shot is either missed focus or a too-thin depth of field.

Now, by narrowing your aperture, you’ll increase the window of focus in your images. An aperture of f/16 may keep the entire scene sharp (depending on various factors, including your lens’s focal length). Whereas an aperture of f/2.8 will generally give a tiny window of sharpness.

So if your images are blurry because the depth of field is too thin, just dial in an aperture of f/8, f/11, or even f/16, and you should see a significant increase in sharpness.

Technically, if your images are blurry because you missed focus, you should work on your focusing technique (as I discuss below). But by narrowing the aperture (and consequently deepening the depth of field), you can give yourself a bit of extra leeway when shooting.

Note that narrowing the aperture will also darken the image, so you’ll need to keep an eye on your exposure as you make adjustments. You can compensate by lowering the shutter speed or raising the ISO, but these have significant consequences, as I explain throughout this article.

8. Keep your ISO as low as possible

In several of the above tips, I’ve discussed the possibility of raising your ISO for a brighter exposure – and in certain cases, this is a good idea. A high ISO will increase the image exposure so you get a detailed photo.

However, high ISOs come with a downside, called noise. Noise is essentially little speckles of light and color across your shots, and when it gets out of hand, it can seriously impact sharpness.

So what ISO should you use for sharp images? It depends on your camera, and high-ISO noise performance is improving all the time. These days, you can often get away with an ISO of up to 800 or 1600, especially if you use a recent full-frame camera.

And if you’re in a situation where you need a fast shutter speed (e.g., you’re shooting an indoor sport), it’s better to boost the ISO than to underexpose all your photos.

But whenever possible, set your ISO to its base value. That’s how you’ll get the sharpest photos.

(Note that you can also reduce noise in post-processing. But this generally comes with a slight dip in image quality, so be careful!)

9. Turn on your image stabilization

Many cameras and lenses offer image stabilization, which is designed to cleverly counteract camera shake.

So if your equipment has this option, use it. Image stabilization certainly isn’t perfect, but it’ll let you handhold at very slow shutter speeds, especially if you’re using top-of-the-line image-stabilized equipment. In some low-light situations, you can even get away without using a tripod.

Keep in mind that image stabilization helps with camera movement but not subject movement – so if you’re shooting low-light action, it won’t offer improved sharpness (though a few lenses do offer sharpness gains when panning in low light; for more details, consult your lens manual).

And one more thing:

If you mount your camera to a tripod and drop the shutter speed below 1/80s or so, then turn off image stabilization. You won’t need the stabilization – your tripod will keep your pictures sharp – and active image stabilization on a rock-solid base can actually increase blur.

10. Improve your focusing technique (and use the right settings)

If you often find that the wrong part of your photo is sharp, then you’re dealing with a focusing issue.

First, I’d recommend checking your focusing settings. When photographing stationary subjects, make sure your camera is set to AF-S (One-Shot AF on Canon). And when photographing moving subjects, set your camera to AF-C (AI-Servo on Canon).

Also, adjust your focusing points. The best choice will depend on the scenario, but a single-point setting generally works for still subjects, while a group of AF points or some form of AF tracking is better for moving subjects.

When focusing on fast-moving subjects, make sure to look through the viewfinder, not the LCD. And pan your camera along with the subjects (and continue to pan, even after you’ve hit the shutter button).

When focusing on stationary subjects, it’s often best to use the focus-and-recompose technique, where you grab focus on your area of interest, continue to half-press the shutter button (this will lock focus), then recompose until you get the result you want. Only then should you press the shutter button down the rest of the way.

11. Consider using manual focus

In today’s world of advanced autofocus systems, the idea of using manual focus might seem outdated. However, manual focus offers a level of control and precision that autofocus sometimes can’t match, especially in challenging conditions. It’s particularly useful when you’re working in near darkness or shooting subjects at close range. In these scenarios, your camera’s autofocus might struggle and repeatedly miss the mark. That’s when switching to manual focus can make a huge difference.

You’ll typically find a switch on your lens barrel to shift from autofocus to manual focus. Once you’ve made the switch, it’s all about fine-tuning the focus manually. This is done by gently turning the focus ring on your lens barrel. It might feel slow, especially if you’re used to the speed of autofocus, but the accuracy you gain is well worth the extra time.

When focusing manually, you can use the viewfinder to eyeball your subject. But for more distant subjects or to ensure even greater accuracy, consider using the magnification feature on your camera’s LCD screen. This will give you a much better view of your focus point, allowing you to make very precise adjustments.

12. Make sure your lenses are sharp

This one is for DSLR and mirrorless owners:

Invest in the best lenses you can afford, because they can majorly impact image sharpness.

Kit zooms (such as the 18-55mm glass that’s often bundled with beginner cameras) tend to be on the soft side, especially compared to pro-level lenses offered by major lens manufacturers.

If you don’t have a big budget but you want to upgrade your lenses, check out fixed-focal-length options (called primes). These tend to cost very little, yet the image quality is outstanding.

Alternatively, you can look for pro-level zooms on the used market; you can often grab them for half the price you’d pay for a new item.

Shortly after buying my first DSLR, I was in the market for an everyday zoom lens that would give me both wide and telephoto zoom capabilities. I bought a Canon EF 28-135mm lens. It was a good lens (and reasonably priced), but the sharpness was lacking. A few months later, I borrowed a Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L lens (“L” is Canon’s professional series of lenses), and I was amazed by the difference in sharpness. While the first lens was good for what I paid for it, I ended up going for an upgrade (and the new lens is almost permanently attached to my camera!).

By the way, before you go spend a fortune on new glass, it’s worth asking: Are my lenses really that soft? Sure, you may not use thousand-dollar lenses, but plenty of lenses are good enough, especially if you mostly just share your images on social media.

13. Get your eyes checked

It may surprise you, but poor vision can decrease image sharpness, too! You may fail to acquire perfect focus, you may accidentally focus in the wrong place, or you might not notice if your lens has a focusing problem.

So get your eyes checked! I recently got mine tested for the first time in a number of years, and I was surprised to find that they’d deteriorated significantly. Getting new glasses improved a number of areas of my life, one of which was my photography.

On a related note, if your camera has a diopter, then adjust it. A diopter is a little wheel positioned next to your viewfinder, and it lets you tweak the sharpness of the viewfinder image. The diopter is particularly useful for people with poor eyesight because it can compensate for bad vision (that way, you won’t have to wear glasses when out shooting!).

14. Clean your equipment

Over time, your lenses will pick up dirt, dust, smudges, fingerprints, and various other items – all of which can decrease sharpness.

So purchase a camera cleaning kit (you can buy them on Amazon for just a few dollars), then dedicate an hour or so to cleaning all your lenses. You’ll need to work carefully, because bad cleaning technique can permanently scratch or stain your lens elements.

Similarly, if you have a DSLR or mirrorless camera, dust can get into the sensor and cause unwanted blotches. I’d recommend letting professionals handle a sensor clean – it can be damaging when done wrong – but if you’ve noticed unpleasant spots all across your pictures, then it might be time to get one done.

15. Use your lens’s aperture sweet spot

As you adjust your lens’s aperture, the image will become softer and sharper depending on the setting.

Wide apertures, such as f/2.8, tend to be softer, whereas the “sweet spot” range is generally around f/8. (Go too narrow, and you’ll start to see softening due to diffraction, so I’d recommend stopping before f/13 or so.)

Of course, the specifics depend on your lenses, so be sure to carefully test each one; take a series of shots at different apertures, then pixel-peep on your computer to identify the sharpest files.

By the way, if you own a zoom lens, you may also want to test sharpness across its focal length range. Many zooms get softer as you move toward the extremes, and by identifying the optimal focal lengths, you can get even sharper images.

16. Fill the frame with your subject

Another aspect that can impact the perceived sharpness of your images is how much you crop in post-processing. Even high-resolution cameras show a reduction in image quality with significant cropping. And if your lenses aren’t top-tier, this quality reduction can become a problem even with moderate cropping.

By composing your shot to include your subject fully, you minimize the need for cropping later. This approach not only preserves image quality but also encourages you to think more critically about your composition. It’s a practice that pushes you to consider your positioning, the lens you choose, and how you frame your subject.

Of course, you don’t have to fill the frame obsessively – sometimes, cropping is the only option – but the more you can get it right in camera, the better your results will be.

17. Apply sharpening in post-processing

When you shoot in RAW, which is something I highly recommend for quality and flexibility, your images might initially appear a bit soft or blurry. This isn’t a flaw; most cameras are designed to soften images slightly to avoid moire, a digital imaging artifact. And since RAW files are unprocessed, they lack the in-camera sharpening applied to JPEGs.

(JPEGs, in contrast, look sharper straight out of the camera due to automatic processing.)

To bring your RAW photos up to par with JPEG sharpness, it’s essential to add some sharpening during post-processing. This step, often overlooked, can transform your images from good to great. A bit of global sharpening can help enhance the overall clarity of your photo.

But don’t stop there; applying targeted sharpening to areas rich in detail can make those elements pop, adding depth and texture to your image.

Additionally, when you downsize an image for web or print, you often introduce a slight softness. To counter this, apply a touch of sharpening upon export. This will ensure your images retain their crispness and detail.

Just remember: with sharpening, less is often more. Over-sharpening can lead to unnatural-looking images and amplify noise. The key is to strike a balance, enhancing the sharpness while maintaining the natural quality of your photographs.

How to take sharp images: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know that capturing sharp photos isn’t hard – it simply involves improving your knowledge and technique. From investing in a tripod and a remote release for stability to applying a bit of sharpening in post-processing, each method will contribute to the overall sharpness of your images.

So follow the tips I’ve shared above, and your images are basically guaranteed to improve. Keep experimenting, keep learning, and most importantly, keep shooting. The journey to capturing sharper images is continuous, and with each shot, you refine your skills!

Now over to you:

Which of these tips do you plan to use? And do you have any tips of your own for taking sharp photos? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Take Sharp Images (17 Essential Methods) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Imagine you’re standing by a busy road after sunset, camera in hand. You press the shutter, and magic happens – streaks of light crisscross the frame, turning an ordinary scene into an extraordinary image. I’m talking about light trail photography, and if you’ve ever been captivated by light trail images, you’re not alone.

But despite the incredible appeal of the light trail technique, many hobbyists struggle to understand how light trails work and how to get great results. Fortunately, I can say from experience that it’s actually pretty easy to get stunning light trail photos – once you know the right techniques.

And that’s what I’ll share with you in this article: The tips, tricks, and techniques you need to know for amazing images. I’ll offer an overview of the essential gear and settings for light trail photography, and I’ll also share a simple, step-by-step approach to crafting your very own light trail masterpieces.

So whether you’re an enthusiastic newbie or someone looking to enhance your skills, this article will explain everything you need to know.

Let’s get started.

What is light trail photography?

Light trail photography is a technique where you use a slow shutter speed to capture the path of moving lights. The result is a series of bright lines that draw your eye through the frame.

Light trail images often feature lights created by cars. However, the lights in question don’t always have to come from speeding vehicles on a highway. They can also be as simple as a handheld flashlight or a sparkler.

Now, this technique isn’t confined to any particular genre of photography. You’ll find light trails in cityscape shots, where the lights of cars weave through towering skyscrapers. In travel photography, trails of light can accentuate famous landmarks or natural wonders. Landscape photographers use light trails to add a touch of drama to nighttime vistas, and you can even use light trails in portraiture to create intriguing effects.

The most compelling part of light trail photography is the aesthetic flair it adds to your shots. Light trails have the power to turn a dull nighttime scene into a vibrant, energetic composition. They inject life and movement into your photos, making them stand out in a sea of bland shots.

The best equipment for light trail photography

Here’s the basic equipment I recommend for light trail photography:

• Camera
• Lens
• Tripod
• Lens hood (optional)
• Remote shutter release (optional)
• Neutral density filter (optional)
• Warm clothes (optional)

There is no single camera or lens type that you need to capture light trails (these days, you can do light trail photography with only a smartphone!).

However, your camera must let you control your exposure settings, particularly those that allow you to choose longer shutter speeds (in the area of 10 seconds to 1 minute). Therefore, you need a camera that can shoot in either full Manual mode and/or Shutter Priority mode. All DSLRs and interchangeable lens mirrorless cameras do offer this functionality, though certain compact cameras, film cameras, and native smartphone camera apps do not.

You’ll also need a tripod, as you’ll be shooting with ultra-long shutter speeds. In a pinch, you can perch your camera on a concrete railing, the ground, or even a car, but it’s really best to work with a sturdy tripod.

And while not essential, it’s helpful to use a lens hood, which will block flare from ambient lights, as well as a remote shutter release, so you can trigger your camera without pressing the shutter button and causing camera shake. The two-second or ten-second self-timer is an adequate substitute for a remote release, but it can be inconvenient to wait for the shutter to fire while shooting, plus it can mess up your timing.

Finally, neutral density filters – which block the light to allow for longer shutter speeds – aren’t necessary if you’re shooting in complete darkness but will helpfully elongate your shutter speeds around sunset and dusk. And if you’re going out on a chilly night, make sure to bring warm clothes!

How to create light trail photography: The step-by-step approach

Ready to capture those captivating light trails? Here’s the simple, step-by-step process for great results:

Step 1: Choose the right location

First things first: pick a location where you’ll find moving lights. Roads or bridges are often ideal. But remember, safety is paramount. Make sure you’re well out of the way of any oncoming traffic before you start setting up.

Step 2: Carefully compose your shot

Next, think about composition. You’ll need to leave a good amount of space in your frame where the light trails will appear. This is often key; the lights need room to breathe!

Step 3: Set up your tripod

Get out your camera and attach it to your tripod, making sure the tripod is on solid ground. You’ll be shooting with a long shutter speed, so complete stability is essential. If it’s windy and your camera has a strap, now’s the time to remove it or tape it down.

Step 4: Choose your settings

Start with a shutter speed of at least five seconds. Longer times like 10 seconds often yield even better results. Your aperture should be narrow – think f/8, f/11, or f/16 – to get a deep depth of field. Keep the ISO low (at its base level if you can) to minimize noise in the final image.

Note: if you find that the light trails aren’t long enough or they’re somewhat overexposed, you can narrow your aperture even further. Alternatively, you can wait for the light to dim, or if you’re in a pinch, a neutral density filter can help darken the scene.

Step 5: Take the shot

Here’s where the action really starts. Wait for a car (or other subject with moving lights) to approach your frame. As it gets close, hit that shutter button. Timing is everything. Try to make sure the car has left the frame by the time the exposure ends. That way, your light trail will look like one continuous line.

(However, you can certainly play around with partial light trails – in photography, there are no rules, only artistic decisions!)

And use the camera LCD to check your images regularly. Pay careful attention to exposure and zoom in to look for any blur. You might need a couple of tries to nail the perfect shot, but that’s okay; it’s all part of the fun.

Light trail photography tips

Now that you know the fundamentals, let’s look at some helpful shooting tips, plus plenty of in-depth discussions!

1. Think about the light

Light trail photography requires darkness, but what time is best? Should you shoot just after sunset? An hour after? Or the middle of the night?

That depends on the effect you’re after. If you shoot at midnight, you’ll get a very dark shot with (probably) car-less light trails. This can look nice, but tends toward abstraction:

Personally, I prefer shooting just as the sun is going down. You’ll capture the light trails along with ambient light in the sky, which can add atmosphere to the composition.

Plus, if you shoot earlier in the evening, you’ll get a little more action, with lots of cars and even people moving through the scene.

2. Take a lot of photos

It’s often good to think of your first couple of shots as test runs. Light trail photography can be fairly complex, and if you only take a single shot before packing up, you’ll often end up disappointed.

Elsewhere in this article, I mentioned the importance of checking your files on the LCD, and that’s a good practice. But I’d also recommend approaching each scene in several different ways: from different angles, using different shutter speeds, etc.

Also, watch out for overexposure. You want to capture light trails, not swathes of blown-out brightness. Your camera’s histogram is your best friend here. Keep an eye on it to avoid issues!

Remember, every shot teaches you something new. So keep shooting until you get a few that you really like. It’s worth the extra time and effort, trust me.

3. Carefully select your composition

It’s not hard to find light trails. But if you want an attention-grabbing shot, you’ll need to put some extra thought into your location, timing, and framing.

For instance, find a location that complements (and highlights) the light trails. You’ll need to pick an area next to a road, but also look for nearby buildings, road merges (where the traffic flows together to create interesting light trail pathways), or even roundabouts (for beautiful circular light trails!).

Compositional framing can be useful, too. Look for natural frames, such as overhanging trees, railings, fences, and the like to emphasize the light trails. Keep the viewer away from distractions (and if possible, eliminate these from your scene!).

And think about incorporating foreground objects or leading lines into the shot; that way, you can guide the viewer’s eye into the scene.

4. Experiment constantly

The main thing I learned in my early days of light trail imaging? Experiment extensively.

After all, you’re learning a new technique. It’s bound to take some fine-tuning, and if you dive in with enthusiasm, you’ll see gorgeous results in no time at all.

So shoot at different times of the evening/night. Try different equipment. Use different focal lengths. And work with different shutter speeds, too!

5. Pick the right light trail photo settings

While the ideal camera modes, shutter speeds, and apertures will depend on the ambient light and the speed of the cars, I can offer helpful guidelines to streamline your choices.

First, use manual focusing; that way, you can get your subject sharp, then leave the point of focus and forget about it.

As I discussed above, if you don’t have a remote shutter release, make sure to use your camera’s self-timer. (Also, if your lens or camera offers image stabilization, make sure it’s deactivated.)

As for aperture and shutter speed: While I wish I could give you specific numbers, different situations are just too variable, so there’s no one exposure combination that will work in every setting. I usually shoot at shutter speeds between 10 and 20 seconds, which gives cars time to move through the frame. And I work with midrange apertures, starting at around f/8 or so, then stop down or widen the aperture depending on your shutter speed requirements.

Also, you can darken the image by dropping your ISO or brighten the image by raising your ISO – but use an ISO boost as a last resort, because the higher the ISO, the noisier the image will become.

And as discussed above, pay careful attention to your exposure. You don’t want to blow out any light sources (such as headlights or street lights); this looks bad, plus it draws the eye away from the main subject. Again, the histogram is your friend. After you take your first shot, go ahead and view its histogram on your LCD, looking for peaks pressed against the right-hand side of the graph.

One final settings tip: If possible, shoot in RAW. It’ll offer increased dynamic range, plus more flexibility during post-processing for better overall results.

6. Seek out a vantage point

Shooting from eye level is a common choice, but light trail photography opens the door to a world of exciting perspectives. One often-overlooked approach is to find a vantage point above the action. From up high, you can capture a new layer of dynamism in your images.

For landscape scenes, high-elevation areas, such as hills and mountains, offer an outstanding perspective for breathtaking photos:

If you’re more of a cityscape photographer, then rooftops can work beautifully. If you can get access to one legally and safely, you’ll see the roads and movement below in a whole new light. The cars become tiny light specks, tracing intricate patterns on the streets.

Bridges offer another fantastic opportunity. Station yourself at the midpoint of a pedestrian overpass, and you’ll have a direct line of sight to both approaching and departing traffic. This position lets you shoot light trails that converge into the distance, adding depth to your photos.

Parking garages may not sound exciting, but they’re a versatile location for light trail shots. You can choose from various heights and angles, giving you a chance to experiment. Plus, they are usually easier to access than rooftops or bridges.

Don’t forget safety precautions when you’re up high. Make sure your gear is secure and that you’re not in a hazardous position. Even minor distractions can become significant problems when you’re focused on capturing the perfect shot.

7. Try an ultra-long exposure

Ever thought about taking your light trail photography to the next level? Consider trying some ultra-long exposures – shots that last minutes or even hours. Traditional light trail photos often stick to exposures of 5-30 seconds. But when you push out that shutter speed even farther, the results can be especially magical.

There are some caveats, of course. Such long exposures can introduce a lot of overexposure in parts of your image. They might technically be imperfect, but that’s part of the charm. The end result can look wildly artistic and unique.

To try this, you’ll need to get acquainted with your camera’s Bulb mode. This function allows you to shoot exposures that exceed the standard 30-second limit. Accessing it varies from camera to camera, but it’s usually somewhere in the menu settings or attached to a dedicated button.

Stability is even more important when doing ultra-long exposures, and a flimsy tripod just won’t cut it. Make sure your tripod is rock solid. If it’s windy, weigh it down with a bag or other heavy object.

8. Don’t just photograph light trails from cars

When you hear “light trail photography,” you probably think of cars zooming down a highway. It’s the go-to subject for many, but let’s think outside the box for a moment.

Consider handheld flashlights. These portable light sources can be incredibly creative tools. Imagine setting up your camera on a tripod in a dark setting. Trigger the shutter and then dash around your subject waving the flashlight. You’ll end up with an ethereal outline that looks amazing.

Fireflies are another great subject. Capturing these natural light wonders over minutes or even hours can create a breathtaking image. Photographing fireflies is a bit more unpredictable than using human-made light sources, but the outcome often has a magical, organic feel to it:

You could even get more abstract. How about a light trail portrait where you or your subject wave glow sticks or sparklers? By carefully moving the light source, you can form shapes, letters, and more.

Switching up your light sources adds a layer of creativity to your work that can set it apart. Keep an open mind and experiment with these alternatives. The results might surprise you!

9. Take your editing seriously

Snapping the picture is just the first half of the battle. Once you’ve got your shots, it’s time to hop into your favorite editor. You’re working with lots of contrast – bright streaks of light against a dark backdrop – and that can be challenging to balance.

Even the best shots can look bad straight out of camera. For starters, you’ll want to adjust your exposure levels. If your light trails are too dim, bump up the overall exposure, the highlights, or the whites. Be cautious, though. Going too far can blow out detail.

Adjusting white balance is another essential step. Your camera might have captured the scene with a strange color cast, depending on the light sources. In the editing process, you can adjust the temperature and tint to ensure a more natural effect.

Additionally, light trails offer an excellent opportunity to play with hues. You can change the colors of the trails to create a mood or atmosphere that complements your artistic vision.

And finally, consider converting your image to black and white. It might sound counterintuitive for such a color-rich subject, but you might be pleasantly surprised by the results. A B&W conversion can turn your light trails into ethereal, almost otherworldly elements.

How to photograph light trails: final words

By now, you should have a solid foundation for venturing into the fascinating world of light trail photography. The technical aspects might seem daunting at first, but remember: every expert was once a beginner. With the proper gear and the techniques I’ve shared, you’re well on your way to creating the kind of light trail images that can truly captivate viewers.

If you’re eager to improve, put in the time behind the lens. Trial and error is part and parcel of the learning process. Take a lot of shots, spend time editing, and have fun.

So remember the tips and tricks I’ve shared. And the next time you’re out at night, do some light trail photography!

Now over to you:

Where do you plan to photograph light trails? Got some good light trail shots? Share your thoughts and photos in the comments below!

The post Light Trail Photography: A Beginner’s Guide (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

How do you do portrait photography that has the wow factor?

Capturing stunning portraits often seems difficult, but it’s actually pretty easy once you know a few tips and tricks. Below, I share my 10 absolute favorite techniques for shooting portraits, including tips for lighting, composition, perspective, and much more.

I’ve also included plenty of portrait photography examples (to get you inspired as we go along). Hopefully, by the time you’re done, you’ll be a more confident portrait photographer – and you’ll be excited to get out your camera and take some beautiful images of your own.

Let’s dive right in.

1. Alter your perspective

Most portraits are taken on a level with your subject, where the camera lens aligns perfectly with the subject’s eyes.

And while this is a good idea in most situations, if you want to spice things up, I recommend completely changing the angle you shoot from.

For instance, you can get up high and shoot down on your subject from above:

Here, you have several different options. You can ask your subject to lie down on the ground and then simply point your camera downward (this works well when shooting in the studio or on clean ground, but it’s not something you can try when photographing in a lake!). You can also find a nice vantage point, like a balcony or even a roof, then ask your subject to look up. And if you’re really focused on getting that overhead shot, you can bring a step stool or ladder with you out into the field.

Another great angle for portrait photography:

Get down low and shoot up. You’ll make your subject appear strong and powerful (and you’ll make the viewer feel small):

Obviously, different angles are more appropriate for certain image types; business executives will appreciate the power of a low-angle portrait, but they probably won’t want to be shot lying in the grass. So pay careful attention to your subject and surroundings, then pick angles that complement the scene. Make sense?

2. Play with eye contact

It’s amazing how much the direction of your subject’s eyes can impact an image.

Now, when you’re just starting out with portraits, I highly recommend you work on attaining perfect eye contact (with the eye in sharp focus). This looks great, and it can create a real sense of connection between a subject and those viewing the image.

Once you become a more advanced portrait shooter, however, there are a few more techniques worth trying.

Looking off-camera

Ask your subject to focus on something outside the frame (a tree off to the left, a house off to the right, etc.). This can create a feeling of candidness, plus it can create a little intrigue and interest; the viewer of the shot will wonder what the subject is looking at, which will cause them to engage further with the image.

This intrigue is particularly strong when the subject is showing some kind of emotion. The viewer will ask, “What’s making them laugh?” and “What’s making them look surprised?” which can lead to interesting narratives and emotional connections.

But be careful; when you have a subject looking out of the frame, you’ll push the eye of the viewer to the edge of the image, and unless you’ve composed your shot carefully, you may take away from the main point of interest: your subject.

Looking within the frame

You might also ask your subject to look at something within the frame. A child looking at a ball, a woman looking at her new baby, or a man looking hungrily at a big plate of pasta; it can all work!

See, this technique creates a second point of interest, as well as a relationship between your subject and another key element in the scene, which in turn helps create a story. (And in photography, stories are pretty much always a good thing!)

Here, the mother is looking at her child, which highlights their relationship and emphasizes their emotional connection:

3. Use the rules of portrait composition, then break them

There are plenty of portrait photography composition rules (guidelines, really) out there, and I’ve always had a love-hate relationship with them. On the one hand, the rules are great for beginners; on the other hand, as you progress, the rules will start to hold you back. So in this section, I’ll start by offering a few useful rules, and then I’ll explain simple ways to break them.

So here are a few compositional guidelines that’ll help you as you compose your portrait shots:

• The rule of thirds urges you to position your subject a third of the way into the frame; it can often be helpful to put your portrait subject’s eyes along the top-third gridline of your image.
• The rule of space advises you to position your subject looking toward empty space, rather than away from it. In other words, your subject should look toward the more distant frame edge.
• Triangular composition theory suggests that elements positioned in a triangle tend to look great. So you can arrange three subjects with their heads at points of a triangle, or you can arrange the subject’s head and the shoulders or arms in a triangular fashion.

Then, as you advance in your skills, you’ll want to experiment with breaking these rules. For instance, placing your subject dead-center will violate the rule of thirds, but it can sometimes create a powerful image (especially when symmetry is involved):

And the rule of space, when broken, can create a level of mystery and tension:

So learn the photography rules, then learn to break them!

4. Experiment with lighting

In portrait photography, lighting is key, and there are literally thousands of blog posts and video courses devoted to portrait lighting.

But for now, I just recommend you learn the basics.

For instance, soft light is generally best, which you can create with a softbox or you can find on a cloudy day (the golden hours can work well, too).

As for lighting direction: Front light is best avoided, because it tends to produce very flat, bland images. Instead, for good portraits, I’d recommend sidelight, which will add three dimensionality and create mood. I’d also recommend backlighting, which can create plenty of mystery.

Below is a fully sidelit subject. Notice the drama?

(For a more subtle sidelit image, you can use a reflector or fill light on the other side of your subject, or you can bring the light out in front of the subject, so it sits at a 45-degree angle to the face.)

Once you get down the lighting basics, start to experiment. You can use rim lighting to capture subtle silhouettes, and you can even have fun with long-exposure light painting, which will give you portrait photos like this:

5. Move your subject out of their comfort zone

Unless you’re photographing professional models, your subjects will likely be a bit (or a lot!) uncomfortable in front of the camera. And an uncomfortable subject makes for uncomfortable photos.

To get your subject more relaxed, start out with some “softball” shots. Photograph your subject just standing or sitting, use simple light setups, and don’t ask for anything out of the ordinary. Praise them after every few shots (even if the shots are bad).

Then, as your subject begins to warm up and as you complete all the basic shots, ask them if you can create more interesting images. Don’t push them, of course – you don’t want to send them back to square one – but gently suggest that they mix things up a bit. For instance, you might ask them to jump, you might ask them to run, dance, make faces, climb trees, and more.

By the way, don’t feel like these more experimental shots need to fit the tone of the shoot. Once you’ve nailed your standard shots, it’s okay to get a little creative. You can ask a family to make silly faces, or even ask a businessperson to jump off rocks, for example:

6. Shoot candidly

Sometimes, posed shots can look somewhat…stiff. Bland. And while there’s nothing wrong with a posed photo, especially if it’s for a corporate flyer, if your subject seems lifeless when posed, why not try a candid approach?

Ask your subject if you can shoot them at work, with family, or doing something that they love. This will put them more at ease, and you may end up capturing some extra-special shots where your subject reacts naturally to the situation.

(Pro tip: If the candid approach is working and you want to get yourself completely out of the way, try grabbing a 70-200mm lens to give your subject lots of space.)

I find that the candid approach can work particularly well when photographing children, but even when photographing adults, it’s worth a shot!

7. Introduce a prop

Portrait photographers love props – and for good reason. Props can add a sense of story and place to an image, they can help your subject feel more at ease, they can add interest, color, and texture…the list goes on.

So don’t be afraid to bring a handful of props to your portrait photoshoot. Then give your subjects the ones that seem to fit with the scene and/or their personality, and get photographing!

A warning, however: Don’t let the props overwhelm your main subject. The goal is to photograph the model with the props as an accent, not the other way around. If you use too many props, or your props become distracting (either visually or more generally), it’s time to toss the props and get back to basics.

8. Focus on one body part (and get close up!)

Here’s a fun way to create unique portrait photos:

Use a long lens (anything in the 100mm+ range should work), then zoom in to capture some detail shots.

I’m talking about images of your subject’s hands, eyes, mouth, shoes, or clothing, all of which can tell an interesting story, plus the results will be far more eye-catching than your standard head-and-shoulders portrait.

Here’s an image of a subject’s hand; it has an element of artistry and intrigue that you rarely find in conventional portrait photography:

Of course, feel free to go even more abstract than that; with a macro lens, you can focus on tiny details, such as the curl of your subject’s hand or the light on their hair.

9. Obscure part of your subject

Throughout this article, I’ve emphasized the value of storytelling, mystery, and intrigue in portrait photography.

Well, here’s yet another way to add mystery, and it’s extremely simple to pull off:

Cover your subject.

For instance, you can cover the face with clothes or hair, or you can use hats or scarves to cover the head. Usually, it’s a good idea to leave some recognizable features exposed, but if you want to make things really interesting, you might cover your subject completely (e.g., you could wrap the subject’s entire face in their hair!).

A lens with close-focusing or macro capabilities will be a big help here, because the closer you can focus, the more you can cut out of the frame and the more you can isolate certain features. In the image below, close focusing was essential (plus, it created a lovely shallow depth of field effect that really emphasized the subject’s eyes):

10. Take a series of shots to capture the action

Whenever you’re photographing active portrait subjects – runners in motion, as in the image below, owners playing with their pets, or even children just having fun – I highly recommend you use burst mode, also known as continuous shooting mode.

You see, burst mode allows you to capture a series of shots in quick succession (the specifics depend on your camera, but these days, 10 frames per second or more is not uncommon). And this does two things for your portrait photography:

1. It allows you to nail those once-in-a-lifetime moments and expressions, like a couple looking longingly at one another, or a child throwing leaves in the air.
2. It allows you to take a series of images that can be presented together, as a unique story.

I don’t suggest using burst mode all the time, unless you have a huge amount of storage space and don’t mind sifting through thousands of images after each photoshoot.

But when you expect action, switch to burst mode. And have fun getting those split-second images!

10 ways to take stunning portraits: final words

Capturing stunning portraits is easy – as long as you remember a few of these simple tips!

So start thinking about compositional rules (and start learning to break them). Start thinking about lighting. Start thinking about angles.

And practice your portrait photography!

Now over to you:

Which of these portrait photography tips is your favorite? Do you plan to use any in your next shoot? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits (Portrait Photography Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.