Comments on: 7 Strategies for Avoiding Flash Blow Out

By: john

john — Mon, 16 Feb 2015 15:05:00 +0000

Hi,
The problem I have is that when I use the (built-in) flash, the picture looks like it was taken ‘with a flash’. Do I need to buy an external flash and syn cable (?); and will this avoid that ‘flash look’?
…… john

By: Matt

Matt — Wed, 24 Dec 2014 07:14:00 +0000

In reply to photomediareview.com. Wireless triggers rock. I've been using a Cactus (V4, I think) and I got it for $20. I even got a 2nd receiver and two flashes will fire at the same time

By: Daniel

Daniel — Thu, 03 Jul 2014 13:57:00 +0000

This article is a good start but also a gross oversimplification, and it’s therefore a little misleading to beginners. I don’t want to get overly technical here — I’ll just explain some basic principles.

1) There really are some occasions when the flash should be the key light instead of the fill light. (But if you only have a built-in/pop-up flash available, that’s almost never a good idea.)
2) I’m glad there’s a mention of blur from longer shutter speeds, but this need not be the case if the camera is held steady (like on a tripod). You can still get sharp images with long shutter speeds if the camera and the subject both stay still in place. If there is no tripod available, there are techniques to brace yourself to keep the camera as stable as possible.
3) ISO latitude varies WIDELY depending on the camera equipment. Older point-and-shoot digital cameras have almost no ISO latitude…some max out at 400 or below! The new ones are a lot better, and newer dSLRs and mirrorless cameras are better still. So sometimes it’s better to blow out a shot with a flash than to not get it at all.
4) Aperture latitude also varies WIDELY from lens to lens (and in the case of point-and-shoot, from camera to camera).
5) Shooting RAW can add a lot of flexibility compared with shooting in JPEG mode. Of course, a lot of point-and-shoot cameras cannot shoot RAW, but if it’s available, it can make a big difference.
6) It’s important to think about white balance, and it’s doubly important in low light situations because those are often high dynamic range situations where color balance can get way off kilter. Again, shooting RAW can help you bail yourself out in post-processing. Even if you have RAW mode available (and ESPECIALLY if you don’t), you really need to think extra hard about achieving proper white balance in low light / high dynamic range situations. I know even my smart phone camera has an HDR mode.

By: photomediareview.com

photomediareview.com — Thu, 17 Apr 2014 01:44:00 +0000

DSLR or advanced mirrorless users: Get the flash off the camera! Use a sync cable, or better yet – wireless triggers. This alone with open up a entirely new world in your photography.

By: Christopher Flees

Christopher Flees — Sat, 26 Oct 2013 08:05:00 +0000

lighting of the scene that you are desiring to capture will make or break your images. This article truly hits the nail on the head when it comes to digital photography, actually any type of photography, light or lack thereof is king. I shoot both day and night photography. You can see some of my work at: http://www.cfleesphotography.com it will take some time mastering what your camera can do with and how it reacts to light at different levels. The best practices is to practice and determine exactly what needs your camera has when it comes to light requirements so when you locate that special subject day or night. you will be prepared to capture the image.

By: Ruth Fix

Ruth Fix — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 00:12:26 +0000

HELP. Is there any way to fix a blown out photo in Photoshop Elements 9?

By: Michelle True

Michelle True — Sat, 29 Jan 2011 04:47:56 +0000

@tessa- That sounds like a great idea, wonder if my family would think I took up smoking? haha
@simon I really like the idea of the white light from the computer screen when you open a new document. I may give that a try!
Also, I am sure I have either a coffee filter or a pringles can lid around here most of the time. But the tip on watching for tissue type diffusers to burn is good to know!

By: CharlieJ

CharlieJ — Fri, 31 Dec 2010 14:43:16 +0000

I didn't see this tip for a diffuser, but it works quite well -- even if it looks a bit humorous. Recently, I was shooting a high school basketball game... and had forgotten to pack a real diffuser. So, I grabbed a styrofoam takeout tray and cut the bottom out of it; taped the bottom of the tray to the top of my flash and point the flash at the ceiling. The diffused light was perfect to light the players, without blinding them. The result was nice, white light, too. These little gems also come in handy with pop-up flash on a DSLR. For less than $20, you can't go wrong.

By: John Parkett

John Parkett — Thu, 30 Dec 2010 02:58:15 +0000

For pop up flash work indoors, I use a little reflective card called a Zeh Bounce, which I found on B&H. It works like a typical reflector to bounce off wall and ceilings. I have had much luck with this method and it’s flat so it fits into a pocket. Works better than the translucent diffusers indoors, but for outdoor use to help soften, I have a Gary fong puffer, though it is harsher light on indoor shots. The zeh bounce is less than half what I paid for a gary fong puffer. And for indoor shots I have been very happy. Mainly use it for family events at peoples homes. Starts to be come less effective when ceilings are higher than 12′.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=zeh&N=0&InitialSearch=yes?BI=6813&KW=&KBID=7366&img=bh-logo-125×86.gif

I think they have their own site.

By: Barb

Barb — Thu, 30 Sep 2010 22:46:49 +0000

In the first few photo examples shown, it would seem to me that using MACRO mode would help tremendously. Not only would the focus then be correct for your close ups, but the power of your flash would automatically adjust for closer subjects and would fix the blown-out issue. For those who are not used to using it, it’s the mode represented by the flower symbol. Happy shooting, everyone!